The Oklahoma County Register (Luther, Okla.), Vol. 38, No. 44, Ed. 1 Thursday, April 21, 1938 Page: 4 of 8
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A CENTURY OF MILADY'S ESTER FINERY—Upper left: A walking dress of the Thirties (From
Godey's La(ly's Book 1835) Lower left: In the era of the hoopskirt (From (odey's Lady's Book 1865)
Upper right: When every lady was a devotee of the style called the "Grecian bend" and wore a hustle
(From a fashion book of the early eighties) Lower right: A "Gibson girl" of the early I900's Center:
An Easter frock 1938 model (Courtesy Style Creators Chicago)
By L'LMO scow IvAmoN
e Western Newspaper Union
TO THE children Easter may be a synonym for rabbits
THE
eggs hot cross buns and other such delights—
mostly gastronomical But to nine out of every ten women
it means—new clothes And of course to most men it's a
reminder that they're going to have to pay their proportional
share of the $1500000000 to $2000000000 bill for Milady's
Tr nztor nnorut 4
Easter finery!
But after all they shouldn't
complain They're mainly
responsible for this annual
Easter parade of new frocks
new hats new gloves new
stockings and new shoes
For do you suppose for a
moment that Milady would
go to all the trouble of get-
ting an entirely new outfit
for Easter if she didn't want
to delight the eye of Mr
Mere Man? (Do we hear a
voice saying: "Sure she
would just to show oft be-
fore the other women!"? Is
it a masculine or a feminine
voice?)
Anyway men have always had
a great deal to do with making
women "fashion-conscious" and
two men perhaps more than any
others have been instrumental in
helping American women satisfy
the desire—which the men helped
create—to "keep in style" One
of them was N1r Louis Antoine
Godey and the other was Mr Ebe-
nezer Butterick
Godey was born in New York
City June 6 1804 educated there
and there during his earlier years
operated a bookstore and cir-
culating library From this oc-
cupation it WnS a natural step
to the publishing business In
1830 he moved to Philadelphia
where he established Godey's
Lady's Book the first periodical
of its kind in America In a few
years this magazine had attained
an enormous prestige and cir-
culation Despite high postal
rates the delays and uncertain-
ties of the mails and the expen-
sive and cumbersome methods
of printing in those days the
Lady's Book had the unprece-
dented circulation of 150000
copies annually--proof of a popu-
larity which Godey With his na-
tive genius for advertising never
allowed his readers to forget
Part of its success of course
was due to the WWII an whom
Godey secured for its editor in
1837—the famous Sara Josepha
Hale Curiously enough she was
not primarily responsible for the
Lady's Book becoming a textbook
in fashions That was the work
of Mr Godey hinaalf and ac-
cording 10 Inclairdon Wright in
ady's Easter
his "Forgotten Lad6s" Godey's
"greatest stroke of publishing
genius was the use of colored
fashion plates In those issues of
the thirties one plate sufficed
Mrs Hale writes in defense of
them that they cost $3000 a year
to hand-color and that they gave
constant employment to twenty
women"
Continuing his account of this
stroke of genius Wright says:
"Ills enterprise pushed this fash-
ion news idea to its furthest
limits He sent fashi -tists
to Paris and had soid—y re-
porters attending social func-
tions to jot down notes on the
dresses By 1803 the issues
were running two fashion plates
in color fourteen pages in black
find white and nine others with
descriptive text At this time
Mr Conley told his readers that
in one year he had spent over
$100000 to produce Godey's
Lady's Book"
But if Codey spent money in
promoting fashions he also made
money In 1877 he sold his maga-
zine to v stock company When
he died on Noveher 29 1873 he
left a fortune of more than
$1000000 acquired entirely from
his publications and the greater
part of that fortune was made
by his Lady's Book
Ehenezer 11utterick the other
man who had so much to do with
promoting women's fashions in
this country was a native of
Massachusetts Ile was 22 years
Godey's junior having been born
at Sttrling in Worcester county
May 29 1626
After receiving his education in
the common schools of Sterling
and in the Leicester academy
young Ebenezer was apprenticed
to a tailor in Worcester Later
he established a business of his
own as a merchant tailor in
Sterling Leominster and finally
in Fitchburg
While conducting his business
But terick was touch annoyed by
the waste of time in cutting cldl-
dren's garments and he con-
ceived the idea of a set of grad-
ed patterns V hich would be a
great convenience to him and oth-
er tailors and especially to moth-
ers inakirig clothes for their own
children After a series of ex-
periments he produced his first
salable patterns on June 16
1863 a :late which marked the
I
Inery
beginning of a great enterprise
that has flourished for three
quarters of a century
At first Butterick's efforts were
directed to boys' and men's cloth-
ing but in the spring of 1367 the
first patterns for women's gar-
menti4 were cut These first pat-
terns were folded by members of
Butteriek's family and were put
up in packages of 100 patterns
The success of the idea was al-
most immediide and by the follow
jog September Butterick had to
rent rooms in a house nearby and
engage live women and girls to
help with the folding
In the spring of 1864 the busi-
ness was transferred to the old
Academy building in Fitchburg
and during that season Butterick
issued his first fashion plate a
small one showing designs for
children's clothing Later in the
year he began publishing men's
fashion plates These were ac-
companied by cut patterns which
did away with the labor of trac-
ing and cutting out patterns from
diagrams as had been necessary
previous to that time
Within a year Butterick's busi-
ness had grown to such propor-
tions that he decided to embark
into wider fields Ile went to New
York and rented a room on
Broadway for his workshop
By 1867 I3utterick's patterns
had become so popular with
American Nv omen who were
learning from them how to make
their (akin clothes that he was
able to hire a general agent one
Jones Warren Wilder and a sec-
retary Abner W Pollard who
Nacre associated with hint in the
firm of E Butterick and Com-
pany In 1881 the Butteriek Pub-
lishing Company Ltd was organi-zed
and the active manage-
ment of the business placed in
the hands of Wilder and Pollard
with Butterick exercising a nom-
inal supervision over the manu-
facturing department
Butterick finally retired from
the business in 1899 and went to
his native town to spend his last
years Ile died in Brooklyn N
Y March '31 1903 By this
time his company was selling
more than 50000009 pat I erns
every year and one of the most
familiar scenes in American
homes of that period was the
sight of mother and her daughter
or daughters bending over the
kitchen table on which was
spread out a length of cloth To
it they were pinning pieces of
tissue paper of various shavaia
around the edges of which they
would cut the cloth carefully A
new dress was in the process of
Leiria made in an American
home thanks to the ingenuity of
a Yiiiikee tailor named Eteneztir
Butt' rick
il
THE OKLAHOMA COUNTY REGISTER
Although sAoinen's styles as
exemplified in the annual Easter
parade have always afforded
Mr Mere Mdn an opportunity
for what he cersiders some of his
wittiest remarks they have also
been a subject for serious study
by the iiistoriees An example
of this is the bouk "Recurring
Cycles of F'ashion 1760-1937"
written by AgT1('S Brooks Young
and published Ifiy Harper and
Brothers last
This book t ased upon exten-
sive research in the style maga-
zines of the weill published dur-
ing the last 17 years 'develop the thesis thef fashions repeat
themselves in eieit cycles which
may lie as dely charted 35
cycles in gove: ointal chares
depressions wi-rs and the like
However the:e fashion cycles
according to antlior occur ir-
respective of governmental
changes depre :eeris or vV:it'S
They come at eidiximately three
to a century i i their keynote is
the contour ef Malady's skirt
1'lItT0 are taice fundamental
skirt contour-- isch-fuliness tu-
bular and the loll
This cOnclult1 V as based upon
-a study of the firet fashion mag-
azines which on publication
late in the Eiehteenth century
and comparnef the illustrations
in them with thoee in famous
American EreiHil and French
WOrilerlS Ma! Ines since that
time After Mg 50 yearly
illustrations frae which to choose
an average keeled style these
averzige styles were studied for
type conformey They revealed
that whatever the waist or eleeee
differences there was a skirt sett-
ilarity which riin through each
time cycle
From such evidence the tiuthor
of tins work to rived at the threeta-recentury
cele as follows:
Back - fullness from 1760
through 1795 or :16 years
Tubular from 1796 through
1829 or 34 years
Bell from MO through 1867
or 38 years
Back - fullness from 1868
through 1899 or :12 years
Tubular from 1900 through
1937 or 38 years
A glance at the illustrations
which accompany this article will
demonstrate how the styles
shown there fit into this time cy-
cle The two illustrations from
Godey's Ladys Book—the 1835
style shown in the upper left-hand
corner and the 1865 hoop-skirt
model in the lower left-hand cor-
ner—come within the 1830-1867 pe-
riod and are kith bell styles
The lady with the bustle (up-
per right-hand corner) exem-
plifying the style of the early
eighties comes within the 1868-
1899 period Certainly her dress
exemplifies back-fullness!
The Gibson girl in the lower
right-hand corner dressed in the
prevailing style of the early 1900s
exemplifies the tuhtilar as does
trim nee 1938 shown in the cen-
ter In so far as the tubular
era has now run for 38 years—as
long as the bell period of 1:130-
1867—before this year is cut we
may see the hell style back again
It may not come before time
for next year's Faster parade
for according to the author of this
book these mysterious fashion
changes are not abrupt but grad
V'
ual But it is pretty certain
that when it does arrive it will be
a bell fashion for a tubular cycle
is never followed by a back-fullness
cycle any more than a hack-
fullness is' followed by a bell
One reason for tins according
to the autlier is psychological—
women are likely to consider as
comic any fashion which they re-
member as having been previ-
ously worn In their own lifetime
Since a groat many American
women today can remember the
back-fultress of the bustle era
they subcoosciously consider it
comic and would not think of go-
ing back to it The bell era how-
ever is a bit too remote for
them so it will be easy for them
to hail a style from that cycle
as "new"
Lest the men think that they
are not such "slaves to fashion"
as are the V omen let it be added
that their styles while going
through a slower change than the
isemen's conform nevertheless
to the cycle in which the women's
fashions are moving For exam-
ple Ill 17) there was a backward
cut of tnenl coats and a fullness
added below the waist which
echoed the back-fullne:s of the
women's frocks in that year
Then too in the present tubular
era men hire discarded the short
sack coat and substituted the long
sack coat just as the longer skirt
has rcplaeiint the very slairt
several 3ears
Gandhi Emerges From Retirement
Mohandas K Gandhi better known to the ester') world as the
Mahatma shown taking part in the formal opening of a cattle farm at
Ilaripura India in connection with the meeting of the fifty-first Indian
national congress It was the Mahatma's first public appearance in
a long time
Where Nature Furnishes
"Daylight System " System
Midnight Sun on Job All
Summer in Norway
Oslo—In Norway nature provides
a "daylight saving" system which
should be the envy of all Arnold-
cans who seek to prolong the days
of summer
Americans in masy states set
their clocks ahead an hour during
summer to capture enough addi-
tional daylight for a golf match a
swim an evening drive after work
Norwegians on the other handl
simply let nature take its course
for here the midnight sun gives
the northern part of the country per-
petual daylight in summer and
makes all but two or three hours of
the entire twenty-four light even
far to the south in Oslo
Magnificent Spectacle
At North Cape for example the
midnight sun rises May 12 and
keeps right on shining until August
1 At Tromso it becomes visible
May 18 and continues until July 25-
and at Bodo it shines from Jure 1
to July 13
The regions of this gred spec-
tacle were long off the beaten track
CLERIC LIGHTS UP
Most Rev Arthur Cardinal !tins-
ley archbishop of Westminster is
pictured in an unconventional pose
here Cardinal Iles ley one of the
live cardinals created by Pope Pius
last year was snapped as he lighted
a cigarette even as you and I dur-
ing a luncheon he attended in London
of tourists and were considered a
land of Lapps of crude hunters
and fisher folk Few travelers ven-
tured further north than Trondheim
ancient capital of Norway Modern
transportation however has
changed pll that and today a voy-
age to North Cape is almost a
"must" of a trip to Norway and
northern Europe Because of the
great Oslo Exhibition of Norwegian
Life which will open May 12 and
continue to September 18 Norway
expects a great increase in Amer-
ican and Canadian travelers and
consequently in visitors to North
Cape
Most travelers begin their voyage
into the region of the midnight sun
at Trondheim sailing through a
placid sea which mirrors massive
cliffs and mountains As the cruise
vessel crosses the Arctic circle it
usually fires a cannon shot and the
crew points out the location of this
imaginary line which passes over
the island mountain Ilestmanden or
the "Horseman" At the great Vest
fjord the Lofoten islands come into
view a magnificent spectacle in-
deed with their colorful fishing
hamlets and towns This archipel-
ago is home of the greatest cod fish-
eries in the world and yet so lovely
that artists have come here for gen-
erations to r aint it
Carlyle's Porch Lamp
Tromso travelers find is a busy
town the center of a vast fishing
histry and the so-called capital ot
Arctic Ships leaving it often
time their departure so that pas-
sengers may see the midnight sun
between the islands of Vannoy and
Arnoy just before midnight At this
spot the sea horizon is broken by a
solitary summit the Fugloy so that
travelers have an unobstructed
view as the sun traces a path Of
burnished gold over the shining
sea
To the surprise of many people
Hammerfest roost northerly city
of the world has all the comforts
of civilization—electricity movies
telephones and newspapers There
is little about it to remind one that
one is 300 or more miles north of the
Arctic circle except that trees have
grown smaller and somewhat
scarce Even there however a tiny
forest struggles pluckily for exist-
ence The North Cape and the midnight
sun as seen from it must thrill even
the least emotional of travelers
Whoever stands on that limit the
world and looks out over the polar
Ocean and the silent North can
never forget the barbaric splendor
of its desolate solitude which
Thomas Carlyle described as "the
silent immensity and palace of the
eternal whereof our sun is but a
porch lamp"
Turn iklalkan 1-1ant1 Into
Indians Lead Ideal Life Under
Own Economic System
San Francisco—The little American-owned
island of Annette just
off the coast of British Columbia
is becoming an economic Utopia
according to Roderick Davis the
island's "ambassador at large"
All the inhabitants are Indians
and Davis himself is an Indian lie
was former mayor of Metlakatla
the only town on the island In his
present capacity as "ambassador
at large" he has been to Washing-
ton to see that the inhabitants of
the island got the best kind of a deal
in the establishment of an island-
community fish cannery and his
trip to San Francisco was to obtain
better radio facilities for his constit-
uents "Everybody on our island has a
job" Davis declared "We pay no
taxes lighting and cooking facilities
are free there are no such prob-
lems as unemployment high cost
of living or security or other as-
pects of the white man's burden
"Furthermore we have solved
the problem of the best kind of an
-
-
Goose 35 Years Old
Knows When to Hide
Oril lia Ont—Neighbors are
wondering if Mrs William N
Smith's 35-year-old goose has dis-
covered the secret of youth
The only mystery is that the
goose disappears from the flock
every year just before Christmas
and returns immediately after
the festive season
College Student Earns
Way by Staging Shows
Ripon Wis — Faustman
rlEpon college student found that he
has had to pull strings tc) gPt him
self through college But the strings
he pulls are not of the political kind
They are attached to his puppet
troupe whose performances before
school and college audiences are
helping him pay expenses
Faustman is only nineteen years
old and a freshman in the college
but he is a veteran of eight years'
experience with his performing
marionettes He organized his troupe
in Seattle when he was eleven and
has improved and enlarged his cast
props and repertoire regularly since
then
His presentations now include
"The Three Little Pigs" "The Gold
Bug" "Little Red Biding Hood"
'Ile Haunted House" "Jack and
the Beanstalk" and many vaude-
ville skits which he has devised
Now A noDGElt
Hopes that the Brooklyn Dodgers
may go places in the National
league pennant race were raised by
the addition of Dolph Camilli who
was purchased recently from the
Phi tiles Last year Camilli had his
best season since breaking into or-
ganized baseball Playing in 131
games he batted 339 finishing
third in the home run standings be-
hind Joe Medwick and Mel Ott with
a total of 27
Modern Utopia
economic regime which is that of
self-government based on munici-
pal ownership of the things that
provide the necessities of a civilized
life
"Our municipally owned can-
nery" Davis said "shows a net
profit of more than $1MOtill a year
The cannery is leased on a 50-50
basis The surplus cash from the
entire enterprise is banked with the
United States government and pays
4 per cent interest"
Davis explained that the center of
life on the island of Annette is in
the town of Metlakatla which was
founded by Indians of the Thimishi-
an tribe of Canada Some 50 years
ago they had become dissatisfied
with the Canadian administration
and moved over to the American is-
land of Annette which is part of
Alaska
Under the administration of Alas-
ka including Annette the United
States decided that only Indians
should be allowed to occupy the is-
land Since then they have lived
there blissfully and built up their
own little economic system for mak-
ing the island a veritable Utopia for
themselves
Pig Derby- in Photo Finish
"Mid-West" a promising young porker piloted by Miss Dorothy Ehr-
hardt of Chicago is shown winning by a snout against "East" a rival
pig piloted by Miss Frances Bright of Princeton N J in a novel "Barn
Sweepstakes" held recently at Pinehurst N C
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Keyes, Chester A. The Oklahoma County Register (Luther, Okla.), Vol. 38, No. 44, Ed. 1 Thursday, April 21, 1938, newspaper, April 21, 1938; Luther, Oklahoma. (https://gateway.okhistory.org/ark:/67531/metadc2068277/m1/4/?q=houston: accessed July 4, 2024), The Gateway to Oklahoma History, https://gateway.okhistory.org; crediting Oklahoma Historical Society.