Coweta Times. (Coweta, Okla.), Vol. 5, No. 49, Ed. 1 Thursday, June 16, 1910 Page: 3 of 8
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iiiOTDERS
WHO HAVE
DAUGHTERS
AN’S first clothing
was an animal pelt
and without doubt a
sheep pelt It may
be suggested that the
fig leaf antedates the
sheepskin as an ar-
ticle of wear This
may be true but tbj
fig leaf can be con-
sidered only as a
temporary expedient
which was discarded
with the first cool
w inds w lilch swept
the Mesopotamian lowlands
over
The sheep pelt or the w-col plucked
or sheared Trom It was the pilncipa!
clothing of man from before the dawn
of hist oi y down almost to the present
day Now cloth made from vegetable
fibers principally cotton has a more
extended use than wool But this does
not mean that cotton and linen are
displacing wool as an article of hu-
man wear Far from It the use of
wool constantly advances by enormous
atildes and the even greater advance
In the use of cotton Is due In no small
measure to the fact that the supply of
wool can not meet the demand for
clothing Mankind must perforce wear
the vegetable fibers or go unclothed
The same fact Is true of the product
of the silkworm the supply can never
equal the demand Cotton of course
bps conquered for Itself a newr field
the clothing of the unclothed races of
the earth In addition It has supplied
new articles of clothing to civilized
man whose ancestors wore hut little
else than wool The European or
American of today does not wear less
wool In truth he wears more but he
also wears more articles of clothing
and these for the most pait are cot-
ton There Is a close parallel all oter
the world between the cattle and the
aheep ludustiy but there are some im
portant differences as well
It has rarely happened and can
scarcely happen again that cattle will
anjwhcte be raised piimarily for their
horns und hides but the taising of
sheep for their wool Is one of the well-
recognied steps In the Industry It Is
the fact that this can be done fo as
to pay a tnndsonie profit that built up
the great sheep industi les In the wet--em
part of tho United States in
Australia and New Zealand in South
Africa and now is building up a great-
r Industry In South America Free
or very cheap pastuiage Is the funda-
mental condition for this kind of
sheep raising Were It not for these
new lands where the cost of feeding
the sheep Is nominal the price of wool
would advance to a point where wool
clothing would be beyond the means
of any except the very rich Sheen
raising Is a profitable industry In Eng
Irfu °rD Gf 1 “any- or ‘he eastern half of the
United States not because of wool but because
theTldef 7hB ?eeC0 s a hy-product just as
the hide of the steer or of the dairy cow is a
by-product the principal value of the animal Is
Its flesh In the new sheep centers of South
America the principal value of the animal Is
its wool and fortunes were made from the
flocks even when not a pound of mutton was
exported or sold
Wool as the word Is used In commerce Is
not a product alone of the sheep It may be
wool although It comes from the backs of sev-
eral varieties of goats from the camel the al-
paca the guanaco the vicuna or the llama as
well as from the sheep It Is the thing Itself
and not the zoological classification of the ani-
mal which determines whether the fiber Is
wool hair or fur Since the classification Is
commercial and not scientific the line between
these three classes Is necessailly vague and
indistinct For Instance the under covering
of the camel may be camel’s wool or camel’s
hair and so we have alpaca hair or alpaca
wool From the sheep there are many vaileties
of wool long and short straight and curly
coarse and fine and what is generally more
Important than any of these varieties In the
sei rations or imbrications appearing on the
surface of the fibers
It is important in considering wool as a
commercial commodity to keep in mind the
three different kinds of cloth made therefrom
These are commercially known in English as
felts woolens and worsteds The processes in
making these three kinds of cloth are so dif-
ferent as to make them entirely different in-
dustries employing entirely different machin-
ery Felt is made from the wool or fur in
mass the cloth holding because of the lock
clutch of the imbricated fiber Woclens and
worsteds are spun from threads but the
threads in the two kinds of cloth are prepared
In a different manner and the weaving is en-
tirely unlike Formerly entirely different
kinds of wools were used for making
the two kinds of cloths or rather it is more
accurate to say that only certain kinds of
wools could be used in making worsteds Al-
'most any kind of wool could be used for ma-
lting woolens although some were much more
suitable than others and as a rule those least
suitable for woolens were best suitable for
worsteds In effect therefore certain wools
were used for woolens and certain other wools
for worsteds With the improved modern ma-
chinery used in worsted mills these limitations
are fading away so that worsteds can now be
made from wools formerly not used for this
purpose
The wool used for making woolens Is card-
d that for worsteds Is combed Tho effect of
these two processes is that in the first the wool
fibers are crossed and interlocked as much as
vossible and in the second they are drawn out
to be parallel as in cotton or linen Woolen
yarns although hard-spun look and feel light
and fluffy Worsted yarns appear finer and
stronger
The weaving of the two kinds of cloth Is
not unlike at least not to the unskilled ob-
server except In one particular and this is a
most important one — woolens are fulled and
worsteds are not The fulling of the cloth ac-
complished by heat moisture and pressure
brings together and interlocks by means of the
imbrication of the fiber the several threads
entering Into the cloth into a more or less
felted whole The cloth shrinks sometimes as
much as one-half and in such material as for
Instance the so-called doeskins and broadcloths
It appears and feels like felt
It is this process of semifelting the cloth
made possible by the peculiar lie of the fibers
In the yarn that distinguishes woolens from
worsteds Formerly entirely different classes
of wool were used In the two cloths — for wool-
ens the short-staple highly imbricated carding
wool merino for example and for the worsteds
the long staple slightly imbricated or smooth
combing wools By modern machinery It is
possible now to use the short-staple wools in
making worsteds '
In practise the raw wool after being washed
and scoured is subjected to a series of comb-
ing processes In each of which the particular
fibers suitable for a certain purpose are ex-
tracted The residuum after each combing is
called a waste although ltB value per pound
may have been augmented by the extraction of
the lower-priced fibers
According to United States census reports
manufactures of wool rank tenth in the list of
American industries The total capital invested
was $310179749 and with an output valued at
$296990484 a year In the classification
adopted the manufacture of clothing is not in-
cluded Since 1900 there has been an enor-
mous increase In the wool manufacturing in- -dustry
principally In the manufacture of
worsteds At the same census the number of
sheep in the United States was 39852967 Since
then there has been a 43 per cent Increase in
the number of sheep as appears by a report
Issued by the census office on January 1 1910
which shows 67216000 Bheep in the country at
the present time These are valued at an av-
erage of $4 08 giving a total value of $233644-
000 By the census of 1900 the country pro-
duces 276567684 pounds of sheep’s wool and
961328 pounds of mohair and goat hair Esti-
mating the same average clip of wool as at that
time the production of the country at the pres-
ent should be about 400000000 pounds of wool
In reality it should be greater on account of
the Improvement In sheep breeding
There are several hundred varieties of
sheep both in the domestlo and in the wild
breeds The former have been under the do-
minion of man since before the dawn of his
tory Whether these are
derived fiom any one of
the existing wUd species
or I tom the crossing of
several or from some
now extinct species Is a
matter of conjecture
even to scientists Vari-
ations in the different
domestic breeds are very
great and in no other
particular greater than
In the wool Domestic
sheep not considering
the Asiatic breeds may
be classea under two heads — the Spanish and
tho Biltish breeds The SpanUh breed Is the
Merino which has modified more or less the
sheep of all Europe including the British Is-
lands North and South America South Africa
and Australia The Merino has a very char-
acteristic appearance which easily distin-
guishes him from other breeds He has a thick
covering of wool over the forehead and cheeks
bis horns are large ponderous and convoluted
laterally The wool is long soft and twisted
into silky looking spiral ringlets The wool
fibers are highly Imbricated and possess in the
highest degree fine felting qualities The origin
of the Spanish Merino is not very well known
but the breed is known to have as a foundation
the original breed Introduced into the Penin-
sula by the Romans upon which was crossed
certain English sheep most probably the Lei-
cester or Lincoln sheep
Up to the time of the Napoleonic wars the
position of Spain in the wool trade was at the
bead Spanish wool went all over the civilized
world and enjojeda reputation for being the
best However the peninsular wars with the
attendant evils following thereon had a most
disastrous effect on the wool trade of Spain
and produced a depreciation in its quality and
a consequent loss in exportation for the wool
of the famous breed
Spanish Merinos were taken to Hungary in
1775 and to France one year later — the most
famous French Merino is the Ramboutllet
Spanish Merinos were first brought to Ram-
boulllet by Daubenton in 1782 and from this
first Importation the breed was developed It is
now known all over the world as one of the
beBt of the Merino strains Spanish Merinos
were brought to the United States in the early
colonial days but the breed was lost In a pro-
miscuous crossing with the earlier imported
British breeds The first Spanish Merinos
whose descendants have been kept pure were
brought to the United States in 1802
Merinos were taken to the Spanlsh-Amer-ican
colonies almost with the first colonists
and are the foundation and almost the sole
foundation of the so-called native breeds in all
the American Latin republics but the breed
was not kept up and consequently decayed
even more rapidly than subsequently in Spain
following the Napoleonic wars
While Spain has the honor of having pro-
duced the most valuable single breed of sheep
bred for wool peculiarly suitable for clothing
the British islands have produced the greatest
number of valuable breeds of sheep bred for
wool suitable for all purposes and even for
the particular purpose for which Merino wool
is best suited but little interior thereto Of
course in the mutton breeds Great Britain has
always stood without a rival but also In its
long-wool breeds it la without rival In wool of
this character The British breeds are clasal-
fled as long wool short wool and mountain
broerts The lone-wool breeds are
the Leleefter Border I elcester
Cotswold Lincoln Kentish Devon
Iongwool South Devon Wensley-
dnle and Roscommon
The short-wool breeds — this class
includes among others tho famous
mutton breeds — are the Oxford
Down Southdown Shropshire
IlampFhlre Down Suffolk Uyeland
Somerset and Dorset Hoi ned
The mountain breeds are the
Cheviot lllackfaced Mountain
Herdw lck Lonk Dartmoor Ex-
moor Welsh Mountain and Lime-
stone All of these breeds are English
except the norder Leicester Chevi-
ot and Blackfaced which are
Scotch the Welsh which belongs to
Wales and the Roscommon to Ire-
land The Leicester from an historical
standpoint is the most important of
the long-wool English sheep and It
was the great reputation of the
wool of this breed that gave Eng-
land in the past its prominent po-
sition as a wool-producing coun-
try Most Important of all It Is the
Leicester blood which Is the foun-
dation of many of the other best
English breeds and as such has ex-
tended Itself over all the world
The wool is fine white and long-
stapled The Lincoln is the largest and
heaxiest fleeced sheep Many of
the fleeces will weigh from 18 to 28
pounds with a staple 20 Inches In
length The Lincoln resembles the
Cotswold but Ins a less pionnunced
tuft on the forehead and the wool
Is closer cm led
The wool of these sheep has s
fine glistening appearance which
has earned for it the name of “lus-
ter wool ”
The Southdowns Shropshire Hampshire
Downs Oxlord Downs and Dorsets are among
the better known slioit-wool sheep The Dorset
staple is the shortest
The Cheviot is the best known among the
mountain breeds The Cheviot Is sometimes
called a middle-wool sheep
The French heeds best known are the
Choletaise which carry a good fleece the Lar-
zac a short thick-se animal with long fibered
but rather scanty wool the Rerrichome du Cre-
van better known for its heavy milking quali-
ties than dor woof and the Manchamp sheep
known as La Chamois which produces a most
excellent long and flne-flbered combing wool
In addition to the domestic sheep lntioduced
Into America by the English Spanish and Portu-
guese settlers South America possesses a group
of wool-bearing anlmaU which are native to ths
country This group the auchenia is one of the
two branches into which the existing genera of
the family of the camelldae is divided The oth-
er branch is the camel (camelus) of the Old
World
Most authorities agree in dividing the au-
chenla into four species the guanaco the vicuna
the llama and the alpaca The two last named
are not known In the wild state but were do-
mesticated by the native Indians long prior to
the coming of the Spaniards to South America
There is no reason to doubt that the guanaco
and the vicuna might also be brought under sub-
jection Tbe vicuna Is a smaller animal about ths
size of the fallow deer It Is found In the high
mountains of Bolivia Peru and Ecuador seldom
descending below 13000 feet Although It may
be tamed It is to all intents and purposes a
wild animal It yields an exceedingly fine and
delicate wool of a reddish-yellow color which
is worth about twice as much as alpaca
The alpaca was the wool producing animal of
the Incas as It Is yet of most of the people of
the Andes and the west coast of South America
It Is found principally in Peru and Bolivia but
does not thrive below about 5000 feet
All of the South American countries are pro
ducers of wool from the domestic sheep and
most of them are exporters to a greater or less
degree ’but the recent development of the sheep
industry in Argentina Uruguay and Chile lends
a particular interest to South America as a pur-
veyor of this one of the world's staple articles
of trade
The annual wool clip of Argentina for the sea-
son of 1849-50 was 8000000 kilograms 17600000
pounds This was a respectable showing for ths
time and gave Argentina a position of impor-
tance In the wool trade The wool however was
a coarse grade most of it what is known to the
trade as Cordova used by worsted spinners for
carpet yarns In 61$ years the Industry had in-
creased thirtyfold so that the clip of the year
1899-1900 was 239000000 kilograms— 625800000
pounds This represented about one-fqurth of
the world's production The quality of the wool
meanwhile had improved
A leoent census of the country (1908) shows
67211764 sheep it is almost impossible for the
mind to grasp these figures but some Idea of
their significance can be gained when it la stated
that "if the animals were assembed In a gigan-
tic drove 12 abreast they would reaoh across
the continent from New York to San Francisco
This places Argentina second to Australia which
leads the world with over 83100000 the United
States third with about 66000000 and England
fourth with about 350(0000
The export of wool from Argentina for the
year 1(08 amounted to 816183000 pounds
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Leftwich, Mark A. Coweta Times. (Coweta, Okla.), Vol. 5, No. 49, Ed. 1 Thursday, June 16, 1910, newspaper, June 16, 1910; Coweta, Oklahoma. (https://gateway.okhistory.org/ark:/67531/metadc1743706/m1/3/?q=aRCHIVES: accessed June 10, 2024), The Gateway to Oklahoma History, https://gateway.okhistory.org; crediting Oklahoma Historical Society.