Tulsa Daily World (Tulsa, Okla.), Vol. 11, No. 15, Ed. 2 Sunday, October 10, 1915 Page: 5 of 18
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THE TULSA IKMIA WOULD
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WfflB7
Winter Cold
Milady's
"Wrvals
"but fteverffever
Plum Color Soars High
In Fashion's Favor
AReturnTotheNormal
Waistline-Skirts Must
Be Full Though Full-
ness Is Sometimes Con-
trolled By Pleats-New
Materials.
ONE docs not select what Is
termed an "individual" tallleur
for everyday wear. Any ec-
centricity or exaggeration of
tyte is apt to become a burden to the
spirit If ono Is forced to bear with
It intimately (lay in and day out.
through an entire season.
Hut It Is an Impoverished wardrobe
nowadays thai boasts only one tail-
ored suit. The modern woman Is so
trig and tailor-made so much does
she depend on well tailored raiment
for winter wear thnt usually three
suits at least are deemed essential
in planning tho now wardrobe for a
season. Some women have half a
dozen tatlleurs. so that taste In color
as well as style may he satisfied. There
is first the simple! mannish suit for
knockabout wear and for traveling! a
suit of some fine worsted weave In
mixed effect or neutral coloring with
braid-bound edges and perhaps a very
little velvet or fur on collar and cuff.
This tallleur must be perfectly cut and
must hang and tit with exquisite cor-
rectness but It must express service
and simplicity rather than Individual-
ity. Another suit In tho wardrobe will
permit the tailor more latitude for his
fancy which spells In combination
With skill and current style; Individu-
ality. l ull Suits Dark In Color
Tho new autumn suits are dark In
hue but they are exceptionally rleh
and handsome In tone becauso of the
beautiful materials used. Tho darker
the color tho better the material; Is a
wise rule to follow always. White In
almost any material even twenty-cent
crepe Is attractive; but there Is noth-
ing more atrocious than cheap black.
Between these extremes of hue the
rule holds good; the darker the color
the better the material must be. Ho
because the autumn suits are dark
very handsomo fabrics must be used
In them and these fabrics In combi-
nation with velvet and fur trimmings
produce nn effect of great richness.
All tho plum and Uordeaux shades are
favored by Paris plum particularly.
Plum has long been yielded by custom
and propriety to the older woman and
Indeed it Is a most becoming sonde
with gray hair' itut this year the
younger women have adopted plum as
l heir very own and one sees It every-
where among the new tallleur trim-
med with black braid or with fox
skunk or the lovely beaver fur. A
charming Iioucet model of plum col-
ored velvet has Just been completed
for an autumn debutante. Think of a
debutante daring to wear plum -a few
years ago! iter grandmamma would
have remonstrated vigorously at this
assumption by youth of the privilege
of age. This suit has a very short
skirt full at tho waistline but falling
In shallow box pleats at tho foot
how the box pleats were managed In
chiffon velvet only Iioucet knows! The
coat Is In hip length gathered at hack
and sides Into a cord that defines a
natural waistline. At the front there
is a Russian Closing at one side the
double breasted front panel falling
unbelted from neck to hip. The neck
Is cut sciuare across a very new whim
of Fashion's and at either sido rises
a high turnover collar of black fur.
t'uffs of tho fur edge the long tight
COatsleevefl and there is a small round
black fur muff to match.
A plum colored suit by Doeulllel Is
trimmed With beaver and this model
was built for a young married wom-
an slim and straight as a girl. The
gathered skirt has an edge of beaver
all around the furry edge falling just
to tho hoot top. Tho coat Is In short
hip length and flares gaily out from
the slim waistline into a beaver trim-
med ripple. There Is beaver also on
the sleeves and a beaver collar swathes
tho neck. The coat meets but does
not lap at the front and Is held to-
gether by four big cord ornaments In
the plum shade of the suit.
Green is Very Fashionable
Oreen is another shade favored by
Madam .Mode this year but to be
very fashionable green must be dark
bottle green and hunter's green being
tho favorites. One of the stunning
tallleur pictured Is of hunter's green
velvet with a trimming of .sealskin at
collar and wrist. Note the disparity
in width of collar and cuff In this suit
verily a mark of Individuality If one
Is looking for that! The collar
swathes the neck up to the mouth
covering the chin entirely but the
sleeves make no such pretense of pro-
tection against arctic weather for they
flare widely at the cuff Into a deep
hell .dia pe which shows a facing of
gray squirrel fur. Edging the wide
sleeves are bands of sealskin to match
the choker collar. The coat of this
suit ha the Russian fastening and tho
waistline Is accentuated In the new
manner by a knotted s ish of black rib-
bon weighted at tho ends with heavy
cord ornaments The lower part of
the oat ii pleated into the waistline
and falls in point over a short ripple
skirt of the velvet. The hat Is of
dark green velvot with gray-green vI-
vet roses and white gloves smartly
complete a correct afternoon costume
Another attractive velvet tallleur as
Individual as fancy could dei-Ire Is pic-
tured In the DOOdal of gray !.!
And gray nlso Ii a color of Fashion's
choice for the coming winter. A great
deal of gray will be seen. Indoors and
out the shade of this suit which by
'.he way 1 a louct model being a
soft smoke In tone. The fur Is dyed
to match and the very Individual hat
AW Gray
Velvel find
Gr ay fox thia
"Maid and u
QuetioTYttMiPk Hal
tTcruirea if tts
EC feci isnol CaplivalirS
I
ftCtHj Tlape Only a I
tne Foot; Cosl3 may
TIare Anywhere
with brim curling up to form a vertl-
ahlo ques;lon murk is trimmed with a
bit of g-ay aigrette. Fur has been
used lavishly to edge the d?clddly rip-
ple tuni. yards and yards of It were
needed 'Co feel sure but the muff
I dlniint.tive as muffs are now; and
notea great lira! of the fur was re-
quired for the collar. Tho upper part
of the coat gives no suggestion of
fullness though II fits the figure easily)
but the tunic ripples away In many
CloSS folds produced partly by gath-
ers partly iy a clever circular cut
Extremely individual is tho finish of
the gray Velvet skirt which has In-
stead of the conventional hem a sort
of gathered bag attached at the lower
edge am' again higher up by two j
rows Of shirring.
A Wiiiic Broadcloth suit Witt)
Ki llnsky.
The exceedingly Russian effect of the
white tallleur pictured Is owing partly
to tho fur-edged hat; partly also to.
the type of suit with close upper part
and flaring tunic below tho hip. This
Is one of Beer's most individual crea-
tions for the new season and Individu-
ality la evident not only In tho ma-
terial snow white broadcloth but also
In the daring swing of the coat wi'h
full tunic oddly overlapping a back
panel that falls straight from neck to
knee Kolinsky fur makes an effective
contrast with the white broadcloth
and the turban Is of white faille silk
bordered with kolinsky three or four
white silk halls bobbing at one side.
This dainty w hite tallleur la of course
Intended for restaurant wear rather
than ordinary street wear. White
suits of this character aro being worn
at smart country clubs out of town
and fur trimming seem to be as com-
fortable for Indian summer as for
January by the number of women
whose throats are muffled In fur col-
lar these warm autumn day.
A very practical yet distinctly In-
dividual type of street tallleur Is Il-
lustrated In the model of dark green
broadcloth with short saucily flaring
coat and skirt ornamented with but-
tons. This skirt Is cleverly cut with
fan -shaped side gores. Inserted at one
side with a slut seam and at the other
side with a lap. Velvet buttons trim
the lapped edge nnd are set In tho
slot seam as far up as the knee. While
the skirt of this suit flares only mod-
erately around the feet the coat Is
exaggerated In flare around the hip
and It short enough to reveal the
s'ender line of the figure beneath. If
It were not short this coat would be
rather bulky but its shortness renders"
It youthful and dashing In combina-
tion with Its excessive fullness. Vel-
vet buttons are lined up the elOSS-
fltttng sleeve and trim also an oblong
panel which runs downward from col-
lar to bust. This It a. decidedly now
note. In coat fashioning
of special attention If one
er of individuality in iln
Is worthy
is a seek-
ss. Alto
gether this i nn Immensely chlo little
tallleur. its newness of style Is pro-
nounced ami Its color a soft dark
'green Is particularly smart. LsOSd
boots of fawn colored SUede are dainty
anil effective below the green cloth
skirt and the sailor hat of dark green
ottoman silk with sombrero oord of
green and dull gold tops off thu cos-
t ume attractively
llioadi loth Material In liiuir.
At least a third of the new tull-
leUTS aro of broadcloth which will bo
a favorite of Madams Mode this ssa
son according to all present Indica-
tions One of tho most charming
broadcloth suits presented so far Is
plotured In one adapted from a Paris
modeli a dainty littlo suit to bo sure'
with cutaway coat opening over a
new Jumper waistcoat of whlto broad-
cloth In a season when fur Is so
fashionable that even in September
plenty Of It was seen In New York
this very open coat looks Just a bit
chilly; but this Is one of the t.illleurs
with which will be worn enormous ani-
mal skin neckpieces coming low over
The Jumper
Waistcoat
Requires an
Open. CoatFif3or.t
but 3ometYuT
W&Vrt may be
"Worn Benefit h it
Jk
Shoulders and bust. The jumper waist-
coat also Is loose enough to permit
tho wearing of a warm close-fitting
Jersey vest Underneath and there la no
reason why tho wearer of the dainty
costume should not be comfortable
whatever tho weather. There Is a
youthfulneas about the waistcoat al-
most as Informal as a white duck
middy in line that makes It very at-
tractive but only a slim youthful
woman will look well in such a style.
The suit Is of broadcloth In a new
cinnamon brown shade the skirt ad-
mirably Mmplo In cut with a deep
hem set by band. The coat Is also
simple but It Is cut by a master band.
At Its back la a Hat. applied panel
that gives a very straight line from
collur to hip. The ooal lining of pussy
willow taffeta matches the shade of
the suit exactly and is revealed under
tho Open fronts and under the sloshed
sleeve-ends. A graceful uttie collar
and tie are of black moire ribbon and
the Jumper-waistcoat of white clotll
ll embroidered In white .soutache and
trimmed with small gilt buttons.
IB the modern feminist movement
with Its constant urge for deop
thinking broad thinking and high
thinking affecting woman's love
lor tho more frivolous part of dress
trinkets'.' Hno must admit that mes-
darns who plead the new cause In
public show no apparent contempt for
thu distinction conferred by rich gems
They wear splendid rings and costly
brooches -Just as ordinary women
have done since the beginning of time.
BlSOk and wliltu ornaments continue
in high favor and some very beautiful
specimens of this kind of Jewelry are
shown for winter wear. Notable 1b the
he kerboard pattern achieved by
mounting squares of rut Jet in alterna-
tion with squares of Closely set dia-
monds or rbinsstonss In a delicate
silver setting. Hllver by the bye Is
the craze In high class Jewelry now
silver and the more expensive plat-
inum and the pure white lights of
diamonds set In sliver ure considered
more distinguished than the yellow
glint produced by gold. A ring of
silver set with a rabuchon topas and
Imbedded with diamonds and black
nameL Is one of the handsome pieces
of Jewelry pictured. A second ring
of silver shows a dlso cabuchon of
aquamarine set In a circle of black
enamel In which are sunk tiny bril-
liants The exquisite and delicate col-
or of this ring may be Imagined! This
Is one of the new bridge rings with
a movable setting. The whole setting
may be unscrewed from the ring and
unothor style of setting substituted
and one of these bridge ring with
two settings makes a very acceptable
gift
New earrings shown In the same
Illustration prove themselves to be
rather stupendous affairs hardly to be
missed In even a casual glance at
milady's toilette. The earrings at the
upper left hand corner are of gold
with scientific emeralds swinging In
vary narrow gold rims below good
sized diamonds. BJtneraldS of genuine
value would be almost prohibitively
expensive In this sic such stones
Would endanger the llfo and safety of
their wearer If displayed outside a safe
deposit vault; but "reconstructed"
emeralds have the sanction of good
taste Just now. Just as have "recon-
structed" rubles and sapphires and
-ombined with genuine diamonds these
stones are rarely beautiful.
The bowknot earrings at the lower
corner are distinc tly new. They are
made of black enamel and small dia-
monds In a light sliver sotting with
rut Je-t depending from closely strung
brilliants at the bottom. They and
the earrings shown higher In the Il-
lustration ire designed for wear with
unpterced eurs.
Tho new bowknot effect Is shown
also on u brooch of diamonds. The
work on this ornament Is exquisitely
lino and beautiful black enamel and
diamonds being artistically combined
In the bowknot which Is set at one side
of the diamond circlet. Sliver Is used
Instead of gold In the setting to
heighten the effect of delicacy. An-
other brooch Of rather belt clasp
of diamonds and silver has a huge
reconstructed sapphire in thu center.
Just above It Is a collar of cut Jet
slides mounted between rhlnestonea
eac h set separately SO that the collar
la supplo and flexible.
if ftM
Carrlngs r stupdom'.o r; King Have Removable SI D I
Usugte Frees Braoaleis
ul IWtwkuoU
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Lorton, Eugene. Tulsa Daily World (Tulsa, Okla.), Vol. 11, No. 15, Ed. 2 Sunday, October 10, 1915, newspaper, October 10, 1915; Tulsa, Oklahoma. (https://gateway.okhistory.org/ark:/67531/metadc135469/m1/5/?q=%22new-sou%22: accessed July 17, 2024), The Gateway to Oklahoma History, https://gateway.okhistory.org; crediting Oklahoma Historical Society.