The Shawnee News. (Shawnee, Okla.), Vol. 14, No. 260, Ed. 1 Wednesday, March 30, 1910 Page: 4 of 8
This newspaper is part of the collection entitled: Oklahoma Digital Newspaper Program and was provided to The Gateway to Oklahoma History by the Oklahoma Historical Society.
Extracted Text
The following text was automatically extracted from the image on this page using optical character recognition software:
THE SHAWNEE NEWS.
'JL^lDIrS'
EVENING
TOILETTES
i.
owGreeh
?) Ideas of Decoration
Are bemSj ITodarnized
This "Restaurant
Costume is a Sartorial
Triumph
A. Creation
in Satin and Gold Lace
Exquisitely Soft Textures Employed for Greek Draperies - Lace
Enormously in Demand - Two-1 one Combinations -
Possibilities of La£t Year's Gowns.
P'CTt'BE effects are dow distinct-
ive features of the ultr*-stuart
evening toilettes lo fact, gown*
,«>s e *lng such characteristics are
, so strongly to evidence tbst it
would seem ss though tbe throng* of
women who passed tbe season of peni-
tence it tbe Koutbern resort* must have
left behind them exceptionally large or-
dera for tbelr dressmakers to All dar-
ing tbe aeven week* between Ash Wed-
nesday and Eastertide.
Not all of tbe work waa s matter of
wielding scissors and needles, for In or-
der to produce a gowu which will In-
stantly suggest to tbe cssusl observer
s definite period In history or srt, re-
quires couslderahle research In libraries
snd Innumerable visits to picture gal-
leries on tbe part of the womau who
baa contracted to furnish It. In addi-
tion to aecurlng an accurate sketch of a
dress of tbe desired type, lta coloring
and. its nearly as possible. Its material*,
must he faithfully reproduced, for not to
be correct In tbeae details la to perpe-
trate a sartorial failure likely to render
tbe wearer of the costume grotesque and
the maker of It a laughing stock for con-
temporary mod In tea.
Garairaii of flaulc Style.
The woman who goes In for pictur-
esque effects In eveulng toilette* Is
uaimlly ao well posted on the rules of
art, as applied to feminine dress, thnt
she la scarcely likely to make the mis-
take of selecting a period costume Which
la absolutely unsutted to her own pro-
portions and coloring Hours of loiter-
ing about the picture galleries of Europe
hare at least taught her not to err on
the side of the luartist'c. ami conse-
quently she rarely adopts u style wh ch
doea not eminently become her. While
there are to be seen Innumerable fascl-
uatlng reproductions of the -ostumes
worn by the famous and Infsmous
b*sutlex who were more or less ideuti-
fed with the court life of pnat centu-
ries. no aiugle period of the world's his-
tory Is so geuerslly favored as Is that
C hlffak-Vslled lesrf la Two Pitoc
of sncient Greece Tbe reason la not
far to seek, for tbe long Due* aud tbe
simple draperies sfTected the woman
of tboae days not only become tbe
womuu of modern times, but they per-
mit the use of an almost endless variety
of exgu site fabrics of no flexible a
weave that they naturally fa I Into
graceful folda.
Bordered Mstrrlsla Continue to lie
Popular.
Now that marquisette, chiffon cloth,
moussellne de sole, voile sod a long llat
of esqulalte silken fabrics are bordered,
they tire more than ever In demaud for
evening gowns. Mauy of these i eauti-
fully soft materials come In rol e form,
some with bauds of two widths for skirt
and bodice respectively, and others with
a length of the border design In all-over
of wblcb to make the sleeves In i aao
they are not cut io one wltb tbe shoul-
ders.
Of course, a great many of tbe trans-
parent and semi-transparent materials
used for evening toilettes have border-
ings In clsasic design, the better to ac-
cord with the Oreek style of dra|>ery.
but in this respect Dame Fashion claims
a certain amount of license and Instead
of adhering strictly to conventional pat-
terns, she is using some most fasciuating
borders showtng odd combinations of ob-
longs and ovals In metal effects with
naturally -.-oloretl flowers aud birds. W.tb
some of these new ttoruerluga appear
exceptionally long fringe* of heavy silk
matching or contrasting wltb tbe tone of
the draperies. and a scheme of decora-
tion * bleb is espec ally good with a
robe of bordered chiffon or marquisette.
Is to use a heavy fringe of god, silver
or Imitation pearl bends. as thU treat-
ment afford* prec sely the amount of
weight necessary for •Iruplrigs which
might otherwise float about lu a frivo-
lous manner not nt all In accordance
with the Auclent Greek's idea* of what
was dign fled In feminine draperies
Heatfnl Tone* of Color Rule.
To select a restful tone of color for
the evening gown is another most impor-
tant detail which occupies the fashionable
woman at this exceedingly busy seiison
of the year when the necessity for con-
stantly consulting the dressmaker makes
tremendous Inroads upou the time which
should be devoted to entertaining brides-
elect and tlielr fiances, although why It
is the custom to sbower the engsged with
Invitations to eat drink and be merry
ha* not as yet been aatlsfactorlly ex
plained.
Nevertheless, the color scheme of an
evening costume Is of such vast im-
portance that hours rosy be spent-tbe
sternly practical would doubtless say.
wasted in trylug to decide precisely
which sbsde of yellow look* best with
pale gray, Just h..w much light blue or
pink may be combined with mauve and
If cinnamon brown tissue Is most effec-
tive over allver or gold cloth. One wom-
au who finally persuaded a most unwill-
ing modiste to make for her what proved
to be an artistic looking evening dress of
psle yellow and blue received so msnr
compliments ou tbe cleverly blend-d
tones tbst conscience nnany fort «d
to confess that a Son* of the ite
button had furnished the Id.-
Thr isao Clwari on f <1
For many moon* fi
disquieting rnator-
of tbs Keualssn
thsse rumors are
there is fsr too n .i. a t,
stiff mnterlsla. full skirts and Helm draped
bodices to please those women who are
s« perfectly content wltb the soft, cling-
ing fabrics aud the graceful draperies
now lu vogue that they would be quite
willing to continue to wear them for an
Indefinite period. The 1HH« cloud ou fash
Iona horizon Is at present very small,
sud i* noted chiefly lu those exiling toil-
ettes of brocade, for while the muiertal
la Identified %lth an elder day than that
of tbe ante tiellum period, it lends itself
all too readily to the stiff, "stand alone"
f. Wis of the 1K.'*> wide-spreading skirt.
Of the beauty of brocades, too much
cannot l e as id. Not only are they of
wondrous coloring, charming design aud
fasclnatlug texture, but they are simply
magnificent In effect As for comparing
them with those worn by our gre-.tt-graud-
■uothers. for the sake of those ancestors
let us refrsln from comment Suffice it
to say that allk manufacturer" have
learned much In tie past hundred years,
and in no direction have they made grest-
er strides than In the art of weaving
gold aud stiver threads wltb turquoise
! blue, canary yellow, nshen
white and pearl gray
A century ago one hundred dollars wa*
j considered an extravngant price for a
I plain silk frock which, by the way. wa*
I rarely made over during fhe lifetime of
It- origiu.ti wearer, and two hundred dot-
| lar* would buy enough limeade for a dre*«
i sntfl. lently splendid lo lie preserved to an
heirloom A like siun will pur haae
| enough of the modern figured material for
a picture g< wn having ihe «<ou volitions'
long, sweeping train, a shapely decollete
j liodlce and mere apologies for sleeve*
; And as such gowns do not require trim-
I mlng* beyond the few yards of point de
j Veulse. duchess or rose point to be ex-
traited from the treasure chest of almost
any family, tbe coat of • brocade picture
' gown is not really prohibitive It mu*i.
' of course, lie borne in mind I bat so ex-
One Way of
Utilizing
Grandmothers
Lace
-Simplicity
Characterizes
this Tunic Costume
cel'.ent print of the sort of costume de- I
sired should be banded to tbe visiting |
dressmaker who will not only be perfectly j
able to fashion such a dress, but will
i heerfully tack It to whatever satin or
taffeta slip is at hand instead of demand-
ing absolutely new materials for a founda-
tion such as a shop modiste would cer-
tainly insist upon. All of the«e details
are worthy of tbe careful consideration of i
the womau of limited lucome. a good so- !
clal p within and tbe laudable ambition i
to look distinguished whenever she ap-
pears iu evening garb.
The Oxersklrt Defined.
Now that the oversklrt ha* arrived and i
nowhere Is It more prominent than on "
evening eli ess—it may l>o well to state j
that It differs radically from the tunic,
which, in tbe mluds of many people, has |
come to mean any tort of double skirt J
effect produced by trimming, whereas the ■
term "overskirt" implies the overdress j
which Is separate from the skirt of a
gown of matching or contrasting material.
A* lace is now enormously in demand aa
a i oversklrt material, the thrifty woman
who has treasured flounces of chantilly.
Spanish thread, guipure or escurlal for
the past three decades will find them val-
uable wardrobe assets. She will perceive
that the lighter mwhes will answer per-
fectly for the upper portion of a chiffon,
satin or silk skirt, and the heavier nets
as the drapery for a gown of chiffon broad-
cloth, cashmere de sole or crepe de chlue,
while a flounce of 40-Inch width may be
used to veil a skirt of gold or silver cloth,
figured or striped satin or woru beneath
a looped back robe of satin or silk. A
costume which last week won murmurs
of approval from the feminine portion of
a Manhattan Opera House audience was
worn by a middle-aged matron of stately
bearing nnd slender figure. It consisted
of a blacV satin slip draped wltb a light
gray dyed chantilly long scarf, which cov-
ered most of the liodlce and exteuded In
sharp points almost to the knees.
I'uless a piece of lace Is of Irreproach-
able quality It would better be of any
color save black or white, for. whether
used over a matching or contrasting hue.
any Imperfections are clearly brought out.
whereas If dyed to precisely match the
heavier material the coarsest sort of
mesh will not only readily pass muster,
but tie really effective. This Is markedly
tbe case with many Itusslan laces, which
are most ordinary looking In white aud
distinctly smart when colored to harmo-
nise wltb au old rose. Canton blue or
canary shade In silk or chiffon broadcloth.
Odd mid Original Tunics.
"Odd" and "original" are the terms
which best describe the tunics designed
for evening toilettes to be worn after
Lent. I'sually they are developed In chif-
fon. bordered or banded broadly with
satin of a shade bearing no resemblance
to that of the skirt over which they are
woru Sometimes a tunic lu a very deli-
cate tone of rose, blue or green clilltou
will be used over a white satin slip broad-
ly trimmed with heavy black lace, or
veiled with a transparency in a decidedly
deeper tone than the tuulc, aud embroi-
dered with crystal or pearl bead* 0r pail-
letted with silver or gold. An other charm-
ing fad of tbe hour Is to wear a crepe
meteor tnnle of rather brilliant hue over
a bullion cloth skirt veiled wl h black or
white chantilly Both combination schemes
are popular with matrons, while for young
girls white transparencies veiling eveulug !
frocks of delicate hue are most in favor.
The Kconoinle* of the Fawhlonablo
Woman.
Some of the women who remained in
town all winter aro now perfectly pre-
pared to enjoy whatever diversions the
spring season may offer. Realizing the
wisdom of tnklng time by the forelock,
they varied their cnaritable labors durin?
Lent by systematically overhauling tbe
contents of their clothes presses, and now
that Lent Is nearly over, instead of pos-
ing as Flora MacFllmseys, they are con-
gratulating themselves on the chic appear-
ance of their made-over evening gowns,
and the fac t that an assortment of taste-
ful costumes must prove a delight to their
friends and arouse envy In the br«*n*ts of
their enemies. There are people who de-
clare that the latter motive has as fatal
a fascination for some women as women
nre supposed to have for the members of
the stronger eex. While this latter state-
ment may not be true, certain it Is that
the vogue of decolletage garnitures has
been of wonderful advantage iu freshen-
ing the eveulng gowns of yesteryear. For
dresses of delicate hue there are garni-
tures of white net covered with rich em-
broideries done In silks of pastel shade*
and tinsels, or trimmed with braid edged
gnlloou bands of greenish gold or dull
silver. In all blac k are garnitures of Ash
uet. elaborated with Jet bead aud bugle
embroidery and fiulshcd with a deep
fringe of heads. Illack, white, crystal,
pearls and gold are effectively blended on
white net garnitures, which are appllquec
with black satin sprays with small leaves
wandering among medallions of gold
beads Intermingled with crystals nnd
pearls.
Especially for the gray evening gowns
which were so fashionable last winter are
decolletage garnitures of gun metal net
embroidered with beads and hugles of i
matching shade. Marquisette aud < biffou
c'oth are quite as popular as are the vari-
ous kinds of net as a basis for these i-on-
venlent garnitures, which are of ninny
different sixes, some of them covering
only a portion of the bodice, while other*
attain the pro|>ortious of tunics and .irs
often so-called.
Miss Auua C. Hedger recently re-
signed a* principal of the Hebrew Tech-
nical School for Girls. In New York, to
become the head of the new household do
partmeiit of economics in the L'nlvcrsity
of New Zea'uud. She was chosen for
this position after a search for u teacher
over urnn> couutries.
7yjo T6<5t/e of
j<s Cthcfzininj&hecZ
f:W women naturally wear scarf*
gratefully or understand precisely .
the type which best becomes tbem." 1
remarked a professional beauty
culturlat as she frankly scanned
the figure of a prospective client "But
tbey can readily '.earn tbe art." she made
haste to add. "and you would be sur- j
priaed to snow how many of them come ;
to our studio solely for tbst purpose, es j
peclally within the paat six months since '
scarfs of all descriptions have been hav-
ing such a tremendous vogue.
"First of sll. the shoulders must be !
considered." continued the beauty cul- 1
turlst. "Nearly every stout woman seems :
to like the scsrf—or the long shawl, for !
they are practically the same—but she
ususlly wears it bunched In folds sbout 1
her neck snd pinned directly beneath ber i
chin. This arrangement has tbe effect
of making the ahoulders look round and >
tbs tbrost short — precisely tbs result |
wblcb should be svoided. The correct |
wsy to adjust a scarf Is to place It flatiy j
across tbe back wltb the upper edge sev-
ers! Inches below the nspe of tbe neck,
then draw It smoothly over tbe ahoulders
and tbe upper portion of tbe arm* and
allow tbe enda to bang straight to the
knees. This arrangement will make even
a quite stout woman loo* flat • «•■«•. ■
back, decrease the . •
ber shoulders n' «! t«
and furni«* r>v
i hen lie edged /icks snd a smoke gray-
tulle hem. "A rattier plump customer of
ours brought this all the way from l'arls
- don't ask me bow she got It through
tbe custom bouse snd now sbe can't
wear It besuse of tbe Inches which It
adds to her shoulders and chest She s
going to give It to a niece who Is pre-
cisely tbe sort of willowy young person
to show It off. And Just look at this
'dream' in pale blue liberty s.lk fringed
with allver fringe The woman who
owna It has a lovely svelte figure snd will
osrry It charmingly, but not for several
week* to come, for abe'a been tarpon
fishing In Florida with ber husband and
her face is as suubrowned a* a 'long-
shoreman's. When we have restored ber
complexion to Its normal condition. Its
delicate pink and wblte tones will be ac-
centuated by tbia sky blue shade.
"What do you think of thia one? I
thought that you would lnatantly ask the
price! But It lan't for Bale for affection
or money. Why, this piece of Flemlab
lace was brought over to America from
Hollaud when 'old New York was new'
snd under the dominion of tbe Dutch.
if course the Flemish laces are wonder-
ft I 4-i.e. I*IV in scarfs, but sfter sll.
•t 1'ilue Chantilly. Escurlal
s. <r **|v lea. stunning.
> i-'il nml silver
.* i.j undershot or rhniiieieon inan-
uer. so tbut the pattern shows only In
| certain lights. Such *cnrfs are charming
' over evening dresses of pale hue and
any number of them will be worn next
summer with wblte lingerie frocks.
"Some of our regular clients -and not
Infrequently the ones who are women of
faultless figure and queenly bearing —
strongly object to the stMight, long scarf
liecauae tbey cousder that It baa no dl*
; tlnctive style, and so **e tell them to
I buy their own materials nnd have them
made Into shaped scarfs. Oh. we don't
hesitate to ndvise a woman to have her
most treasured heirlooms cut up. because
she'll do as she pleases anyhow, and
the lace or Canton crepe scarfs of sec-
tional shape are really charming. One
of the handsomest accessories of this
type has a diamond-cornered back and
tab fronta of black net heavily embroid-
ered with white roses. Tbe foliage Is lu
natural tints and la mounted over pale
green satin and cblffon. It la worn so
fsr below the nape of tbe neck and tbe
tops of tbe shoulders that Its lower edge
cover® tbe elbows and Its owner csrries
It as an empress should wear her rolies
of state. We taught her how to do that
and It took time, too, but It waa worth
the while, for unless sil sign* fall, acarfs
ure going to be worn for aorne years to
come.
"Fragile fabrica make charming scarfs
for quite young girls and we think that
none are daintier than are tboae In two
tone* of chiffon cloth or marquisette.
! ■ v look well bordered with ombre
ii quillings, ruchinga or dellcats
. d ac me of the auiartest-looking
:« nd p-iluted In poppy, orchid.
• -m- patterns The girl who
• «•« water color painting can
f i er of such delectable little
••• i •* " m « hi If ou cioth la inexpen-
c • o it wet r« Mstlsfactorily.
'ksp / Scarf for
Upcoming Pages
Here’s what’s next.
Search Inside
This issue can be searched. Note: Results may vary based on the legibility of text within the document.
Tools / Downloads
Get a copy of this page or view the extracted text.
Citing and Sharing
Basic information for referencing this web page. We also provide extended guidance on usage rights, references, copying or embedding.
Reference the current page of this Newspaper.
The Shawnee News. (Shawnee, Okla.), Vol. 14, No. 260, Ed. 1 Wednesday, March 30, 1910, newspaper, March 30, 1910; Shawnee, Oklahoma. (https://gateway.okhistory.org/ark:/67531/metadc89967/m1/4/: accessed March 19, 2024), The Gateway to Oklahoma History, https://gateway.okhistory.org; crediting Oklahoma Historical Society.