THE HALLETT HERALD
FOR SCHOOL DAYS
Fall Coat Important Part of
Little Girl's Wardrobe.
PRETTY TOQUE FOR FALL
Modish Garment for the Child of Seven
or Eight Yeara Can Easily Be
Fashioned at Home.
School days will come around again,
and modish little coats and smart
sailor hats, each dressed and trimmed
up a wee bit just to take the sharp
edge off of the serious business o£ be-
coming educated, will be in order.
The midsummer wardrobe of the aver-
age active Juvenile Is usually* pretty
well ready for the rag bag at the sum-
mer's end, and when school begins
there are processions of kiddies In
brand new clothes.
Thp little coat shown In the sketch
Is an excellent late summer or early
fall model, and it may easily be fash-
ioned at home with entirely satisfac-
tory results.
Lightweight velour cloth, broad-
cloth, wool Jersey cloth, serge or
gaberdine are commended as admir-
able materials, with an overlay collar
of faille silk or satin. Velvet Is smart,
but It is much warmer looking than
either silk or satin and may be re-
served for use on winter garments.
The back of the coat Is Centered with
WOMEN ORIGINATE KITCHEN
SOME NEW STYLES
JJ
If it is true that fine feathers make
fine birds it is most obviously true
that fine feathers m^ke fine toques.
For here is a toque that pleases the
most critical of tastes, and is as chic
a bonnet as can be imagined. The
principal reason for its exquisite beau-
ty and deiightfuiness lies in the fine
feathers.
DARK BLOUSES NOW WORN
Match Color of Separate Skirts of
Tailor-Made Suits and Give One-
Piece Dress Effect.
To go with'the dark blue separate
skirts of tailor-made suits there Is a
new blouse. That is to Ray, blouse
designers have created pretty dark
blouses that will appeal to those wom-
en who must economize. Delightful
blouses of crepe de chine, chiffon find
georgette crepe are the result. They
match the color of the dark blue sepa-
rate skirts. This gives a one-piece
dress effect.
So they will not look too dark and
will be becoming, the designers have
had the good Idea to lighten them up
with vest and collars of lighter and
contrasting colors. Thus a dark blue
crepe de chine waist can have collar
and cuffs of white organdie. A navy
blue georgette crepe waist can have a
panel vest of light sand-colored georg-
ette and a large spiral or oval motif of
blue and sand-colored beads each side
of the front. Such a waist may be
worn under or over the skirt.
New York.—Life and war and
clothes and psychology make a curious
mixture this midsummer. To analyse,
to philosophize, to play with grouped
masses of people, to watch the sun-
light uud shadow of social existence
as it goes on In Amerlcu today, nre
great temptations. To stick to the
straight and narrow path of clothes,
and clothes only, Is difficult.
There is no lack of a certain kind
of frivolity this summer. We shall
all go on a path of moderate amuse-
ment until the war becomes too stu-
pendous and Is too full of terror for
us to laugh. Let us each pray to God
that that will never happen!
America Is a bit too stupendous a
segment of the earth's surfuce to feel
a foreign war acutely. She may
pour out her men, her sympathy, her
money, and co-operate In every way
that her Ingenuity and resources al-
low lu the struggle toward peace,
but, without an Invading army, with
her colossal Industries undisturbed,
with her wealth and climate, and
with the great mass of unrelated peo-
ple of all nationalities, it Is not pos-
sible for her to take the war as
France takes It.
As long as there Is money, a chance
to wear good clothes, and no reasons
against doing It, there will be fash-
Ions In plenty.
Individuality Is Shown.
Individualism bus suddenly raised
Its head above uniformity. The rea-
son is simple. The early French
models which dominated fashions,
were sold out fn a hysterical wave
of bargains early In the spring.
Nothing has taken thfr place. Our
designers have not risen to the oc-
casion in a mass, as many of the
clothes critics In America thought they
would, if given a chance.
You know, there has been a strong
propaganda for a half dozen years
In regard to the wholesale use of our
city streets Is a point of Importance
The combination of a sand skirt with
a dark green velveteen Jacket trim-
med with silver buttons, Is a phan-
tasy that was brought out by some
smart woman In this country.
The fashion of wearing broad-
brimmed, straw sailor hats In black
or tan, with changing scarfs wrapped
about the crown, was started at fash-
ionable country clubs and has won
out.
The use of a white linen coat cut
after the manner of a riding habit
and worn over a short, plain, black
velveteen skirt, was the Idea of a
young nmtrou who usually has her
own way In clothes and who conse-
quently attracts attention to herself
and has many followers.
The Introduction of the Jerkin of
Robin Hood's day. made In colored
leather, belted with the material, and
fastened with a great silver medieval
buckle, was advanced on the golf
fields of this country and has become
a far more fashionable garment than
the sweater.
Another experiment of the Ameri-
can women, which could not have its
source in Paris, is the universal use
of Immense garden hats trimmed with
brilliantly colored flowers, as a pnrt
of city apparel. The American world
is quite used to the great hat of straw
In country gardens, on beaches and on
the benches of athletic fields, but this
is the first summer that women In
great centers of activity have worn the
so-called country hats on the street, to
the restaurants, and for all manner of
social life. •
New Kinds of Waistcoats.
Another Individuality which has been
brought out, Is the waistcoat of check-
ed silk or cotton with a round, yoke
collar of Itself, also a cravat finished
In a sailors loop with two ends.
Time was when we alwnys consid-
ered It necessary to wear an entire
Fall Coat for Schoolgirl.
THE HOOP BAG
a panel extending from the yoke and
held securely at the waistline on
either side by the pocket strap and
button. The coat may, of course, be
developed In any preferred color, but
the high shades are favored for chil-
dren, and If a somber color Is chosen
the coat should be brightened by a
gay lining, either of one tone or plaid
taffeta or satin.
To make this coat for a girl of seven
or eight years two and one-half yards
of material 30 Inches wide will be re-
quired, with one-qnarter of a yard of
satin or silk for the overlay collar.
The attractive sailor hat has a
crown top and brim edging of velvet.
The brim proper and major portion of
the crown are of satin, the latter, as
will be noted, shirred so that the hat
Is really self-trlmmed, although a silk
pompon at the very top Is added for
good measure.
PITFALLS FOR PLUMP WOMAN
Contrasting Materials and Distinct
Lines Must Be Avoided If One
Would Appear Slender.
The plump woman Bhould avoid con-
trasting colors and materials. Anything
that goes to form distinct flnes is fatal
If one would look slender. Large pat-
terns and wide stripes are equally bad.
A modest pin stripe Is permissible, but
the awning effects are not for the well
developed. Do not draw In the lines at
the waist, this only makes more notice-
able the fullness of the hips and bust.
The bodice should always be long. If
Josephine had weighed 850 pounds we
should never have had the empire
gown.
Short skirts are among the Impos-
sibilities. Every inch taken from the
length of the gown is one Inch deduct-
ed from a woman's height, causing her
proportions to become more and more
out of drawing.
Concerning hats, neither the very
small nor the very large will do for
Mrs. Adipose Tissue. Usually the mod-
erately sized chapeau with slightly
rolling brim Is best. Standing wings
and high loops of ribbon form the best
trimming.
'tf
People who get fussy about their di-
gestion and assume a personal charge
of their nerves, have "nerves" and are
apt to have no digestion. Your men-
tal attitude controls your body. Hap-
piness Is health.
SOME DAINTY COCONUT DISHES.
The fresh coconut Is so delicious
when carefully peeled and grated, so
much superior to
the dried article,
that It should be
used more freely
when It Is In sea-
son and may be
bought Tor eight to
ten cents.
Coconut Soup.—
Put two quarts of
good white stock Into a saucepan, add
a half teaspoonful of salt, one blade
of mace, two bay leaves and half a
cupful of finely chopped coconut; sim-
mer gently for one and a half hours,
then strain and reheat, adding six ta-
blespoonfuls of rice flour mixed with a
little of the cooled stock, add two cup-
fuls of thin cream and serve hot.
A half cupful of grated coconut add-
ed to a cream pie or to a simple cus-
tard, either cup custard or a pie,
makes a pleasing change.
Coconut Croquettes.—Put • quart of
milk In a double boiler, stir In a cup-
ful of farina, a teaspoonful of salt,
and cook, stirring until thick and well
cooked. Add a cupful of chopped co-
conut, one teaspoonful of butter, three
tablespoonfuls of sugar and a half
teaspoonful of almond extract. Re-
move from the fire and let stand over
hot water 15 minutes. Pour Into a
buttered pan to mold. When chilled
cut In slices, roll In plenty of fine
bread crumbs and fry In hot fat. Drain
and serve with a sweet sauce.
Coconut Souffle.—Beat four eggs un-
til light, add six tablespoonfuls of
flour, a teaspoonful of baking powder,
six table spoonfuls of sugar, one tea-
spoonful of orange extract, one cup-
ful of finely chopped coconut and two
cupfuls of milk. Mix carefully and
turn Into a buttered fireproof dish as
soon as It Is set, sprinkle with another
cupful of grated coconut and two ta-
blespoonfuls of sugar. Serve hot. .
Coconut Filling for Layer Cake.—
Beat the whites of three eggs until
stiff, add enough confectioners' sugar
to make It of the consistency to
spread, flavor with a little rose ex-
tract and sprinkle It thickly with
fresh grated coconut.
Fondant stirred thick with coconut,
flavored and made Into balls, Is a very
nice confection.
Here are three pretty parmenta that m.ke an appeal to —
I, a riding coat (or the atreet. It ia o( heavy homeapun ""an, made with
slightly flaring sides. It is worn over a narrow, plain skirt of black velvet-
len Next is a pongee frock with orange stitching. This is laid in small
ntalta held down with rows of hemstitching. The bands are bright orange
„£ and the buUon. match in color. A sleeveless coat of green Inen
eomea last It is made like a medieval Jerkin and Is worn over a frock of
"ae colored linen with white collar and cuffs. Skirt I. embroidered In bold
design In Roumanian colors.
There la alwaya aure to be one or
two bag noveltlea about thla time of
year, and the latest Is the hoop bag.
Thla one la of aoft dove gray moire
ribbon with a number of fine ahlrrlngs
and, of course, a taaael. The whole Is
suspended within the loop of a allver
ring from which a chain ia hooked to
carry It by.
Rulea of the Skirl
Skirts do not stand out at the hem.
In the first place, they are no longer
cut circular. Secondly, they appear to
hang In about <he ankle toward the
hem. This Is because they are cut on
the straight of the goods. The petti
coat, worn beneath the floppy
dress Is of ctepe de cblne with perhaps
deep chiffon ruffles.
Black 8hoea for Fall.
Those In a position to know are fore-
casting black shoes for fall wear. They
base this prediction on the shortage
of light-colored kids and the lack of
dyeing facilities to provide more of
these to take the place of the shortage.
designers to be dominant creators, If
given an opportunity by the public.
Well they have had the opportunity In
America, and, except In rare cases,
they have not shown any desire to take
advantage of It.
On the other hand, the American
women have shown some extraordi-
nary good work In origination.
Now, this Is Just where the reform,
as the critics of French clothes call
It, should start. I'srls hns depended
on Its well-dressed women to lead the
way In clothes for three centuries.
America has depended on Its shops
and dressmakers over here to lead
the way with French models. There
Is a vast gulf of difference between
the two procedures.
Women and Experimente.
There Is no doubt of the fact that
women who are experts In the art of
dressing and choosing clothes have
done some excelleut work this sum-
mer In branching out on successful
experiments. There may have been
some tailor or artistic dressmaker be-
hind their efforts. Wherever the cos-
tume was complete In Its daring and
showed the hand of a master-worker,
It was undoubtedly made at a good
establishment, but the suggestion
sv.rely emanated from the brain of
the possessor.
Much that was traditional was
thrown to the winds. The extraordl
shirtwaist under a coat. Today, since
good taste demands that we do not sit
In public In our shirtsleeves, the neck-
wear people have reaped a harvest
through the various kinds of sleeve-
less bodices which they have Intended
to go under a coat as a substitute for
a blouse. Organdie, chiffon and white
muslin In various weaves are conven-
tional fabrics to use for these fronts
that allow the coat to be unbuttoned,
If not removed.
But the new note Is the departure
from the white to the checked fabrics.
A new colored Jersey suit carries a
waistcoat made of heliotrope and white
checked taffeta. A dark blue serge
carries a waistcoat of blue and white
checked gingham. A natural colored
I>ongee coat suit has a front of geran-
ium red and yellow checks. Black aud
white gingham or taffeta is used for
the full waistcoat of an oyster white
Japanese silk suit.
These little garments are really
sleeveless blouses; they're not even
first cousins to the long, tight-fitting,
Louis XVI waistcoat which the French
have put Into the topcoats and circu-
lar capes for motoring. They are at-
tached to an elastic band that goes
around the waist and are fastened up
the front with pearl or colored buttons.
One can wear a white turnover collar,
but fhe smart thing Is to keep the col-
I lar of the fabric.
Every man's home Is his castle; "the
progress of the Ideal of plain llvln*
and high thinking will make a man's
home a shrine.
A home should be neither so preten-
tious nor elegant that It draws one'a
attention from Its owner.
A FEW APPETIZING SALADS.
Salads well combined, well seasoned,
and well garnished are always a great
addition to nny menu.
Vegetable 8alad.—Mix
together well chilled,
cooked string beans,
thinly sliced, cucumbers,
and shredded lettuce.
For the dressing use
three tablespoonfuls of
olive oil, one tablespoon-
ful of lemon Juice, salt, mustard, pa-
prika and red peppel- In small quanti-
ties, beat with an egg beater and
place on Ice to chill. Pour over the
vegetables Just as they are served.
Orange Jelly Salad.-Dtssolve one
tablespoonful of gelatin In one-third
of a cupful of strained orange Juice,
and stir over the fire until well heated.
Have ready half a cupful of nut meats
coarsely chopped. Peel three oranges,
divide Into sections and cut each sec-
tion Into half. When the Jelly li
ready to mold, pour a little of It Into
the wet molds, add some of the nuts,
and orange sections, then more Jelly
until the molds are full. When rendy
to serve, turn out on crisp lettuce
leaves and top with a spoonful of
whipped cream.
pineapple Salad.—Arrange slices of
canned pineapple on Individual plates,
place a whole marshmallow In the
center with small pieces of marshmal-
low scattered over the pineapple, then
put a few cherries around It, and on
top of the marshmallow a nut meat.
Over the top pour a rich mayonnaise
dressing. To make the mayonnaise,
put yolk of an egg Into « cold bowl,
add a fourth of a teaspoonful of salt,
a dash of red pepper, a fourth of a
teaspoonful of mustard, beat until
thick, then add a half teaspoonful of
powdered sugar and a teaspoonful of
lwnon Juice, l « at well, then add a
little at a time the olive oil, when It Is
thick, thin with more lemon Juice or
vinegar, adding more oil until two
tablespoonfuls of lemon Juice or vine-
gar and three-fourths of a cupful of
oil are used* v
thrown to the winds. The extraordl- ((,opyrlght lgl7 b„ (he McClure Newspa-
nury Inllux of cotton fabrics In the per Syndicate) ^
li