The Oklahoma State Capital. (Guthrie, Okla.), Vol. 17, No. 14, Ed. 1 Sunday, May 7, 1905 Page: 4 of 8
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SUNDAY MORN'INT,.
1005?
THE OkI.AIIO'.IA
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l~7Z^^U/xC^/aiJZX.l EiujAIiarjGMi LU/-C.
Dainty" Summei
insrerie
their lack of seam* and piecing*.
best selection. ami when fashioned wli'
the rawllih Iwlf ilpcvp ffiny
ide to do duty for dinner blouses as
I naergarnients
Delightful
Effects
ore sl'nped In to ho" '
In shape These
Ulltl
r the ii
«l:ii:i111 v triiupteil
nil i!
Mill till
thnl
I ♦•nil themselt
Wie English fashion of having honse
parties over what they term the "week-
end;" that Is. usually, from Friday after
rr"i until Monday, Is one that Is taking
a iiuuiendous bold In this country, and
to such extent that many of the smart
and elever girls In society plan especial
outfits for these occasions exclusively.
Ho many of the fashlonnbles go In for
fads of various aorta nowadays, fads
which keep them In town until the wnriu
weather la well advanced, that the week-
i tul party offers a particular attraction to
them, n distraction over Suuday that
i them forget the strain and atrenu-
> , . city lite, for tho time being, ut
auy rate.
And then, again, there nre always atire
t* bo men at the week-end party, nud
where la the girl who could or would ever
despise the opportunity of so show.tig
her pretty frocks and airing sll of her
pet aud particular charms aud graces?
For the fashionable week-end one must
plan for quite a number of appearance*
There la the gown lu which ibe Journey
' Is to be mude, and this must be auiurt,
for this Impression uiude upou arrival
often determines whether one is to have
u good time or not duriug the short stay.
For the tailor inade gown, the out* that
shall answer with a sniurt shirtwaist for
tool luortuiig wear, Is the best sele> tlou.
Or If the voat of this Is likely be
heavy one cau wear the skirt aud have
one of those smurt traveling or tourist
coats o' ni"halr, preferably lu oue of
tho lighter shades, as u travellug wrap,
ibis will :iswer admirably for a driving
wrap iati i on, aud as It ucver creases lu
wear ami sheds thu dust like the piu.ci
biai duck is suld to shed water, Us suit-
ability for a traveling and a driving tviap
Is well established. Aud, furthermore, oue
urn obtain the wuterproofod mohairs now
adnys, so that the garment is t«jually
good for fair or atormy weather.
One thlug. though—uud It ought to
have been said before - aud that is. plnu
jour wardrobe for this short visit so iliai
it will uot take up much space. Arrauge
for a steamer truuk. If possible, for lui.;.
trunks are anathema uinrauatha to the
a orage hostess aud to her servants as
* ell.
So the gowns and accessories selected
must uecessarliy be those that will stand
packing Into comparatively small >, :i c
i he traveling gowu is first arranged lor,
cud then It is entirely lu accordance with
tu« at commuud tbat tu« icsi uf
ikti wardrobe Is choseu.
A cool Uoen, oue of the heavier sort f r
preference early lu the season, wi.i o.7er '
relief to the tailored shirt uud skirt f ,r I
linn lug wear, and If it be dressy enough
v ut lu fur occasional uflciuoous u>
•n one must hare a selection of
i blouse* for luncheon, and of tnese
repe de chines will l>e foni.il to fin )
."g better that the < hi.T< n, laffcMi.
oitsaallQM, Tlie one scum ervpea, wall i
This mode gives opportunity for tfco
display of dainty little tindersleeves. nn I
when the blouse I* cut out at the neck It
can be filled In with all sorts of clever
combinations In the way of transparent
chiffon. lace, embroidered mousse'iue . il
the like.
For wear with these either a errpe «1o
chine skirt or else one of the silk wnrp
lii-nrlettas goes well. The new prim ♦•«*.■
skirt the one lhat Is continued In* boduv
fashion for some Inches above the waist
makes a charming effect, and when thi*
Is completed by one of the4llttle shoulder
coals, something frilly and of extrcmel-.
abbreviated career, one. has a tolletteth.it
will do for Sunday morning church, after-
noon etfll* ami such.
Although each and every hostess will
Insist that her house party In to be abso-
lutely Informal—It seeiua unite a requisite
part of the Invitation, this alleged In
formality- the wise tin who has been
there before will Include ut least one
fetching dinner frock, preferably high In
the neck, and oue dancing frock cut as
decollete as the uioile ami her ovu styie
will permit
With these preparation* one must hav
at least two chapeans one for traveling
and driving In, ami the other a dressy
affair for afternoons, if the visit he
longer, then an extra hat may be In-
cluded; but. since millinery Is ililTlcult to
p:t< ; ami demand* a totally dispr-por-
tiouate amount of room, the mutter of
headgear would better be limited.
To rush to Hi. oiher . l*of tilings the
shoe*. The Ui\t cut pump or oxford lu
stuey leather —black, of course, that goes
without saying will answer for all day-
light purposes, and a single pair of tmart,
glossy kids will do fur evening wear.
\ ells, haudkf rchicf*, dress shields, belts,
bows auil sashes are best made Into one
package ami wrnpped In tissue paper, and
this thrust into the bodice of the (1 little*I
gown to keep it from being crushed lu
packing. •
Revival of the Leghorn Hat.
The Leghorn hat* aie experiencing a
revival In fitslilouuhie favor, aud the
lint of them are twisted Into ijualut
n ml origins I designs, tin Jet of t lie
milliner being to get no two of them
alike. The preferred trimming Is a in ill-
titude of ostri. Ii piuin —. sever.il lengths
being ••mi. ami the a&evres blue,
a pinkish mauve and u medium shade
of grecu ar - the smartest coloring*. The
brim Is usually well wired uud pinched
to s i t!.e i' atures of the Wearer, the
tui< upstanding well above the crown
ml tlie lioaL# tipii.ted stlcvvn ou the
lata, •
simi
the quotion of llivorle I*
sent* Itself more Insistent
before: and tlie woman who
well ilresK.*.l w liieli. of .
suitably and notify drewd.
slons. must give due heed not
I nuelltv and quantity of her I
to the nil-Important question i
Fit I* whnt reli* In nil thi
rnent" • thli* season. There ii
superfluous bulk of mntertel at the waist-
line or over the hip*. Hunches of «inr
rlmr. drawstrlne*. lapped over f iM- i
give war to smooth pleat*, fit i n111••• h
and buttonhole*. .r d a !*■:'••: It in.r.
above and below the waistline
With the tijfiti*|NVrent blouse* -
, which |t:iine Fashion beam* «o > 1 • '
fully the corset cover heeniues an inii.-ie
; almost as Important a* the l lou*e Itsi ;r
There are various klndi^ of e. r«et i-over*
for vnrylng types of figure* For th ■■■:*•
slender girl there are some ent upon the
French pattern that has but i • -ln il l--
and underarm seams; and the*.-
decora te«l with bertha rutfle* tlu't vvili
give Just the correct ■ iiiomt ti Hi"
i blouse. These little ruttles an- ai'tilicl
with a featherbone cording «• ihat there
Is no chance of their flattening down
while In wear, and since the featherbone
will withstand all the assaults of «lie
laundry without cracking or splitting or
curling up. the corset cover •-<• tashli'iied
| remains serviceable to til" last thread
j Then there ts the corset cover thai li
I made to accommodate a dress shield, and
j this Is truly h boon to the summer
' The dress* shield Is one of tln^e t lis
I penslble accessories that are best unseen,
and wltll tlie sheer and transp. lent - 'n
mer fiocks the adjustment of tui- very
necessary Item Is often a matter i>f some
perplexity. lint when It Is applied tu
; the corset cover this I* sutlslaeiorlly
, Settled. The shield Is buttoned Into place
j s'i that it cannot slip, the buttons^ui Un-
cover ntfd the buttoulioi s on the shield.
With the kind that i • gmi i .uitecd to
wash aud iron the shield li.ay be left In
I place all summer with perfe. t security,
and the vexatious pinning of the shield
ut the last moiuMit is thu* averted. •
For the stmu urn overdeveloped figures
there are th? mos: delightful Corset
covers on the bin • 1 • gii. These are
so Ingeniously p'auned that the closer oue
ties them around t ■ waistline, the liettpr
they uppori mid > Mine the bust. la
front ibet arc fashioned just like a dress
lining, with oout'u darts ami the full
complement of stains, while the buck is
shawl s'/ip*. the oue siile drawing over
the other una the ends, which finish in
* linen tape, ar drawn around the waist
with tt.e de . it Ti' t described. Aii of
tiis muu« aro on thu FreucU bug pallet u,
•' • eorsets are fashioned
'•f« M e tin' i i uiielna parsing sttnl*'nt
nroun I •- inni n little s«uop cut out
■ tiller .•! r.no the tit at the wni-t-
i: in- ml: ■ -to i in tueaiis of fay pinch
t- ' « lie ' I * i ■ r* fitted peplnm 1* In-st
i •••"i.- i so i!'iit It doe* net
rl*e t > -r• i Very often tin* shoulder
• tnifis in- inn ,*mi .u thi* cover, ami then
, i■.■,. arc used to hold It to lite
II i •' "id ,nt in'i garment* are r^>n'le
• ei:son. and their are .
•<' 'l'"!. skirts nil iti one. wit'.i
tie tit 11, - MMirltlne *o managed that
f 1 as i'iii t ,.i rIi*- material I- both above
"ml • • i :u.s adjusts ilseif natural
' iiM- of the wearer without
I The corset euver uud
I •• are hi one. too. and tills '*
' • igenlous garment.
I ■ •- i . er piiutiiioons are like unto
di\id,*.i i : t i.. their fullness.eumi that
i he • still further Increased by
a ! i1 • . I* ef volants, either sliurei.
tucked >>• • .i.-iimi In cut. They pin* and
• •• en the outer edge. fc.• v lu^ a
veiy . r. --a.loped effect.
I'. t i i- prlncesse slip that the
1 ■ «: iin-* In lingerie is ui-
piayeil I ashloned upou exact!)*
• "I'.g i1' ..-s. ami makes A smart
a:id ie .! «h a :meat to be worn beneath
the nil .igcrlo frocks All of tlie
e.*uaI > e m the boillce portion,
i' _i«eii nun feat her bono* Inserted.
Tin sk.i m... — • all of the smart effect *
ot ilie us i. white or coiore«l lingerie
skin; uii is ruffles and other fril
i.e.«es 'i The best of tho French
!.:• i d - nre carefully carried
out in these, ii11ii \v heu one has a repe; -
tolre ot ' hem it duluty and delicate col-
oriugs .j■ i111- n vact number of appear
Mic e- ■ ;.. uhci to a few posseasluus
Hi the 'l'.ge-i- flocks.
I'leated skirts are variously handled
In all er lie- - iinner fabrics. In the
Hlieer s' ^ uud wn,>l mixtures, the eolicu
nes. silk w: ■ |i lii'iirlettns and the
they are pani.-uliirly smart and appro
pi i; •' t lu t o>nb materia Is, Uncus,
embroidered initiates and such. oue
should t ike Into account the llmltnllous
of the laundress aUill before ordering
the kilted designs.
C-Kzvvr [
—Z-rnCJiLE. CLttj
-v 'if'/ if 3
JJi-.r. f~IAD£. ^JzO/SZlZAlSX-'
Fasiiion Fads and Fancies of the Hour
pu
ie* and dolmans are among the
p." .i*ed for nut linn wear, uud In
eni' • -'a (list I ii i ~ t ion lo t! iose the fitted
• i l l coat is jfTered. both ns a sep-
.: ,il a* ,i coatUmt coat. SO far as
Ili^e.ee or abse: e of It is eon-
r* • :.s as though )ou pSys jour
> ami lakes r choice."
id , ii ted ball gowns of chiffon sre
imo ile latest luxuries, ami nil of
es crc alled u; on to add their
of luxury lo this extravagance, lu
. sseiiu of a recent royui bride are
. % "f this description, and a
in; " s Ins while satiu, en
>. ed with I es toons of yellow lea
ami digiils of butterflies. •
tl.e white gowns of the sum •■•er
tin s .en hosiery Is often In a
i i sl.nde of green, n pale lavender,
. ,.i\. or n faint biscuit tint, tue
.i often miscalled champagne. This
..ii with either a duii white suede
•\liite linen shoe, or else with n
black, low-cat pump. The pnra-
.«-i[ und bretelle ribbons are sup*
•■to L«e lu harmony with the
the best trimmings,for the tailor modes
lhat the late summer and early auturarf
demands. In inflny Instances these braldea
quaint embroidery, the metal threads—
gold, "silver, copper—being used for the
body of* the •work, unde some soft but
brilliant coloring used ns s border to
but brilliant coloring used as a border to
define It. The letters of me Chinese al-
phabet offer a fascinating field for this
work, and the more Irregular the desigu
is the betler the result.
Rome very smart bells have recently
been Imported. In watch the back is ex-
ftemely high and the belt sloping down
to a two-luch width at the front buckle.
The lower edge Is level with the waist-
line ail around, and the long, sloping Hue
from the center of the back, where the
celnture Is some t) or 10 Inches high,
down to the front is one that Is most be-
coming to almost any type of figure, giv-
ing mi air of roundness and tenderness
to the contour that is satisfying In the ex-
treme.
The high stock, transparent and barked
wiui Vhltfou. Is the one that Is the unmrt-
,, l utie rods of featherbone lire used
f part the shgpe. ami that fascinating
pwi. .1 curve at the ear i* another re
\'\.il that is balled with pleasure. The
• I„ 0f (be latest neckwear Is ■ ill so us
accommodate the low coiffure, and
built *o that the necessary hooks or plus
or die fattening shall not . nt> u in ihe^aii-
pie\ailing collture hair net. ^
Braids, broad, soft and silky, are among
Among tht
g.itt ns 4
of solid coir
Inserted fan
h«lr. The
gores, the f.
a trifle wlo
ont that
the
"frock
of the little
the cinibrclli'
the elbow lu
lou frills, u.
iQccfjt. arrivals from Paris
the sheer woolen fabrics
•rfTips. In which there jire
:i if silk or plaid nio-
- ..11 I* cut Into straight
■ peatltig Inserted ut or
iv the knee aud the little
i*part of the costume 4s of
I' d trlli*" order, the fan •
between Jiie Istx pleats
■ a', back nud front ami ou
half sleeve that ends at
a perfect cascade of chlf-
eilged.
Smart Simplicity
the Rule.
Tailor-Mades for the Cool
Mornings--The Mohair
Traveling Wrap and
the Dancing •
Toilette.
Till" TAILOR-MADE SHIRTWAIST.
For wear with the traveling or mom-
In? gown the tailor made shirtwaist is
tlie correct thing, ntid the little touch
• f contrast or dressiness that may be
e<!rod is best supplied In the neck dress
In the model Illustrated a linen pop-
i l« used, deep tucks being stitched
'own fhe fronts and occupying Ihe en-
tire sii >• iider seam." The edge of ea it
tin !. Is overenst In nn old blue cotton lit
the ti —rlu.'icKio stitch, this making for a
very smart effect,'Indeed. The back I*
rimi-rnd In similar lines; and the sleeve
follow s th" sreillation shirt pattern, vvlljt
•i 'HIT cuff caught together with pesrl
l .-il buttons. The smaller tflecve anil
i!..- • I jser fit at the armhole make n
■hi'■'d desirable with these. The
stock i* H navy blue silk, to accord with
ilie blue skirt, the cravnt of wrhfle silk
with little fancy ends of blue, and tho
belt I* a nary blue velvet ribbon with a
brass harness buckle.
TO! HIST COAT OF GRAY MOHAIR.
Those loosely fitting coats that are
kJmwn as tourist*.coats nre the ncme of
l.otfi style and comfort for traveling pur
poses. In mohair they are especially
good, for. aside from the smartness of the
material llself. the fart that It sheds dnst
beautifully and does not crease or wrliiki-
no matter how bard tho wear, ahnul.l
commend it to the traveler for all occa-
sions. The one pictured shows n rather
severe style, the collaf ami lapels after
the man tailored fashion, both fronts and
1 id; Ionic, the back caught somewhat t'
the r._'iire. with o short belt strap th>!
este !* from the side seams only. The
glee o I* a full puff that will accommo
dste even a frilly and.fluffy, elceve be
math without crushing, and the fubie •«
Is caught into n smart cuff that sets re ■
sonnbly i lose to the wrist. Convenient
pockets are posed either side of the
front, and tin- double-breasted fastenln-:
I* o.Toefei. invisibly t nder a fly. Although
these coat* are shown In full length, the
•fhree-qm rtes site seems the better
ndsi ' l for summer travel and for g. n
I era I wear.
The newest aspirant for fashionable
fv is !,nowa as crepe marquesette. and
1* sM'ui-i' ' at after a ntoussellne testu-
i- i i - cffect running through u
The i -nit I* lacy In the extreme, an i
.■i:..! lends Itself well to almost any
of trluitulug, be it simple or
• i-, in the picture one in a verv
. of blue I* chosen, and this Is
p -,-.i ..ci a sun-pleated skirt of chiffon
,f ,• % - ;Iv- tin- saine'tlnt. the foundation
ii.-liiu f vvhlte satin liberty. The <or
s;^. i. ■ wMb u round decolletage that
t,iips "ff ilie shoulder, and the sleeve Is
nn extremely roll ombrelle pattern, set-
... to the shoulder ii-id
widening broadly at the elbow. A very
(•level- line Is mode of h turouolse velvet
rlbbou In the hebe width; thla. cnt Info
loops and used as a fringe, appearing on
the festooned berthe of white chiffon en-
crusted with Ince, and lu similar fashion
upon the Sleeve. The sash Is of a hand-
painted ribbon, tha ground work the
game blue as tho gown, and the painting
of vellow tearoses aud the natural tinted
foliage This Is disposed in a deep point
lu front, drawn closely to th® aide, and
arranged In a short sash In the hack.
The skirt I* shirred full to the belt, and
nf -knee d.-iitli an entre deux of lace-
eri'-rii«ted chPfifon Is Introduced, the looped
velvet ribbon fritiKeserylng todeflneU
tin. uud bottom. On this, as on thfl
berth" festoons of the tiny China ros®
ire draned with excellent effcet, and tha
entire gown shows an air of youthful,
girlish modishness combined with a com-
mendable simplicity.
DI VNCR OOW1 OF lllisn CROCHET
AMI CHBI'B I.ISSK.
Crepe llsse Is one of Ulie sheer fabrics
of the chiffon class, nud a recent addition
to the list of fashionable favorites. In
white and the pale colors If Is especially
pretty, slowing off every little touch of
trimming to perfection. In the model,
white crepe llsse is used, and real Irish
crochet Is employed for Its adornment.
The bodice Is high, the crochet falling In
deep points over a ruffled blouse of the
lissc. and the shoulders decorated with a
heavy white mi tin cording, disposed In
trefoil design. The sleeve Is on the om-
brei!" pattern, full and loose at the elbow,
where it "lop*, and covered with little r f-
tl -s of 11 laedged, over which the
' ..diet , mts fall. The skirt Is shirred
over the I |.s, and rows of the crochet al-
ternate wlih little groups of pllsse ruflies.
• • i : iflle edg I with vnleiiclenne*.
The entire >,s*o skirt is closely pleated,
the ruffle- stitched t'^the stretched g""l*.
and the drop or fnunnutloii skirt Is slight-
ly stilt. nt th" l.em with a prince**
h 'i ei ■! that the very sheer material
shall i g lu around the foot.
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Greer, Frank H. The Oklahoma State Capital. (Guthrie, Okla.), Vol. 17, No. 14, Ed. 1 Sunday, May 7, 1905, newspaper, May 7, 1905; Guthrie, Oklahoma. (https://gateway.okhistory.org/ark:/67531/metadc125876/m1/4/: accessed April 24, 2024), The Gateway to Oklahoma History, https://gateway.okhistory.org; crediting Oklahoma Historical Society.