The Oklahoma State Capital. (Guthrie, Okla.), Vol. 16, No. 140, Ed. 2 Sunday, October 2, 1904 Page: 3 of 8
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THE OKLAHOMA STATE CAPITAL: SUNDAY MORNING, OCTOBER 2, 1904
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Slowly but very tartly. Is Dnme Fash-
ion turning her back upon the compar-
atively Bcnnt skirts that have been the
vogue for auch a long time, and her
brightest smiles are given to those that
■how such an extreme of fulness at the
hem that the question of a crinoline—
or some convenable substitute therefor
—becomes a burning one right at the
beginning of the season.
But with all this 'bouffantry there
must be not even the remotest hint of
stiffness In anything. True enough It Is
that skirts measure, or will measure
from 8 to 10 yards at the foot; that
aleeyee will be merely a succession of
puffs and frills; that bodices are to be
artistically draped while disclosing the
tvelte linos and curves of the figure
Them are the most .recent mandate,
of that arbitrary dame, and her fol-
lowers must be careful to select lust
th. class of materials that' will carry
out those dicta to the very best ndvun
tw. That .tiff and wiry «ood, wlll no
mak« iraoeful fold, and euff. that
hMvy cloth, cannot be manipulated 1„
olaMlcal line., all that goes without say.
In*. The clever rfrl who follows the
fajhiona. and perhaps leads them In
•oine line., has already decided that
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there It no material which will carry
the modes, current and to come, as will
tht orepee—the silk crepes that come In
auch a profusion olj- weaves and color-
ing! this autumn.
To tht eomment that It sure to arise
Itiat wt have had crepes de chine with
=ua (or tome little time now the fashion-
able mondalne'quickly replied {hat there
are crepes and crepes. nnil yer again
crepes, and the new W« lves |Qd 111
—to say toothing whatsoever of tl«e color
card—are really Ingh novel t las in ttfi Dl ,
selves, Jndeed. It Is pnssil™ t. ha v.*
quite a repertoire In crepe d' ch ne
gowns of varying weave ind ,r ••• i
that without n iiinf of monotony. . r i
For the draped bodices that are in I:
ne and
i Mn.:-
affalrs that we have been wearing for
bo many seasons papt that their wel-
come Is. Indeed, a cordial orfe.
And then for those extremely f,ull
skirts,* where «oft folds falling ln° long,
straight and almost unbroken lines are
necessary to produce the correct effect,
rrepo de clilne Is simply the ideal fabric.
, The new one-seam double width meets
| .present requirements nicely, for with
' it the snug, smooth, though anything
i ut skin-tight, tit oyer the hips can be
' .-.i-ianged without at all Interfering
| with the required fulness at the foot.
XU of the fashionable trimmings and
trimming elTects chime In beautifully
; with the crepe gown; and Indeed, many
I of them tteflf to have been Especially
dellggfid with such In view. Anything
.■•Ml . erythlng that o.in bo done to add
' to the bn d*nouMtf effect Is In vogue;
! md Whatever will add to the appear-
'! j;«.1 roundness and sltnderness at
li,,. W i.st Is III equally good standing,
i he wise girl who gives thought to her
, . a.-; i has a!i• a ly dif-'overcd that
i1 is ii< w i.; ':ie cannot podblbly be pre-
. in *t ■ •• |f.w-hust cornet that "has
d for tht .!,. st few etaaofit. it
s delir.i'tfully comfortable for* shirt-
waist wear, to be sure;*but-with the
new fitted and draped bodice °th*o corset
must'have the higher bust line, a more
pronounced cut-In at the waistline, and
the long, slender dip In front.
Dame Fashion continues to * dictate
"Hips In!" to her devoted followers, so
the hip of ^he new corset Is long and
sloping. In accordance with this dictum.
And well It Is so. for the new skirts are
shirred and puffe<f and pleated over tho
hips In a manner that will make the
girl of generous girth bewail her lot and
make her take to strenuous exercise to
I reduce her* bulk. Trains have almost
| disappeared, and tho round short train,
that which the Kngllsh woman face-
tiously designates the "bobby" train, has
taken Its place. Skirts are to 'be of a
sensible length, and the one that lay
oif the floor tan Inch or two in front nnd
on the Fides and made all kinds of
trouble for Its wearer has already been
reh gat«j,d to the background#
The rough, crinkly canton ci'epe, the
duh satin mescaline, the brilliant and
shiny satin mervalUeux and the satin I
| luminouse are some of the very newest |
I In the double width that can fashion a I
skint with clever cutting and a single*]
m if i. Two near tdnes of the same color |
;jxe sometimes se< 11 In these t- tin fin- j
l®ics. giving s -nit-thin:; of*a shot effect. I
All of i.lie new colors. • the leather |
■hades, the burnt tints, from the onion
skin on down to the burnt onion, the
burnt orange and the burnt* umber—
they are all'on ths crepe do chine card.
The tfcrra cotta tones 'are simply ex-
quisite in the dull finishes, and the bril-
liant copper tints take on an added
beauty when combined with tha chiffon
velvets of a shade or two darker.
The more delicately tinted robes In
crepe de chine almost Invariably have a
daring touch of color added. For exam-
ple, the soft, off-color whites, the Ivory,
pearl and smoky whitea, will, have a
rope twist of bright coral, or a parrot
red, or emplro jreen, or a aoft onion
■hnde tucked in among the lacea that
are used with such a lavish hand. The
black gowns, too, show the same* tend-
ency; whllp the colored ones are more
likely to keep to their own shadings, but
cleverly run tho gamut of these from
light to dork.
Clever Use of Ribbon and Lacc.
Broafl sash ribbon in the dull Dresden
printing and a deep lace, a oomblnation
of Oluny and Bruges, are deftly man-
aged In this frock of white crepe de
chine, to which a ceinture and strap-
pings of geranium red velvet add a dat-
of color. Tht corsage la al-
most entirely of the0sash ribbon ahirred
to i" 'lero shape, aud disclosing a veat
of crepe and .velvet. The sleeve ia of
the broad shirred ribbon, so arranged at
to admit a cascade puff of crope from
shoulder to elbow, where a further frill
bon makea a finish. The aklrt
Is simply arranged In three sections,
tho upper ono of the crepe! out straight
ail around, but with a very blaa team
in the center hack. This eomes to tht
knee, where an applique of the lace ap
pears; *a puffed hand of the ribbon
comes next and the lace mounted over
overlapping double ruffles of the crept
tlfu.'h l the skirt. XVhlto ohlffon Is
pa i r i,. ith thrf lace. The drop
ah i ha# a Pa-auto flounce of princess
haircloth which holds out the .fluffy
tf crepe. and lace to Just the
correct outline jrlthout eveu a -hint of*
stiftnes.
The Publisher—I'll publish your hook,
and I think it will fill a long-felt want.
The Author—T^hank you. Can you let
me have $5 In advance?"
Tho Publisher—What for?
'1 he •Author—X want to begin to fill
ti at lung-felt want. •
Foolish Social Advice.
II would be Interesting to know Just
rrfcat social axperlenoea those amiably
society editors of a certain class have
.tajoytd who glvt advice to their readtra
Ilka that oontalntd In tht following quo-
"Do not txouet or forglvt too readily
any undut familiarity on'the part of
, your partner. Remember, he may be
almott a stranger to you. and you may
never meet again. If you are tired and
prtftr to miss a dance, sit It out with
your partner If he suggests It, you are
bound to him for the time. Never make
the grosa mistake of sitting it out with
another man. No matter how much you
may prefer tht aoclety of one particular
man. never let your manner ahow It, but
be pleasant, affable and smiling to all"
alike. Above all, never deecend into the
commonplace vulgarity of flirting with
another glrl'a lover—even if you are old
aoQualntanoes. Try to^ realise what your
own feelings would be under similar cir-
cumstances." 8
The foregoing is run under the caption
of "Ballroom Etiquette, and it is given
for what it Is worth to the ffeaders of
these columns. However, wo believe
that ^every young woman who has a
delight in'attending ballroom functions
should simply realize the fact that there
is no such thing as "ballroom etiqueUe
any more than there should bo "dining-
room" etiquette or bedroom etiquette, or
even etiquette In the much abused ball
bedroom inhabited by unfortunates
"whose purses are far from heavy with
this world's wealth. There is only one
way to conduct oneself In the ballroom,
and that Is according to the Instincts
which are inherent Ih every rtghtminded
person. A great deal of harm is un-
doubtedly done through Just such ad-
vice as that which we have quoted by
raising false Ideals and Ideas as to pe-
culiar methods of conduct
Ihvel Tik&mind Schemes-"*
• • ** ■ •
Criminal Des?£ns That Kalla Their Appaaramce On Autumn Importations.
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These lie th<- days when" bht g!"l with .
1 the nimble finders—she who knows ban
I to wield her needle t<> the : est effect-
can l-.a .e the de at h r Unger t. •-*
| to f>peak, ami can fashion for ban If
1 the most delightfully novel and original (
I trimming schemes, nnd that at the mini- ;
mum of expense. Tha* is, if her time
- I>e not counted In tXe cost, for In these
Inter days time is eloquently money, ln-
! deed.
Braids and braidings are the preferred
mode for the tailor-made gowns at this |
present writing, and they nrc applied |
j not only in the most intricate patterns, !
I but in several and varying awidths as
1 well. Tiie OToad braids are now made j
with a pull string In either edge, so that
they may readily be made into* clrclea.
rosettes, little puffed bands and such, all
in an instant's time. These are then de-
fined with a soutache braid, this often
In gold, or with a gold thread inter-
for the little touch of the mldas
•onsidervd indispensable to the
season's mode.
And while we are talking of the tailor-
made, those vesta rliat are so ery fash-
4onable will afford a most delightful
leld for the Ingenuity of the girl as a
designer and embroiderer. The suede
finished cloths in aiLo)f the delicate tints
are second only to the veritable suede
Itself for this purpose; and these are
braided, embroidered In silks, and tha
tlnv Marie Antoinette ribbons and otae-
nlile as well; and often the design Is
supplemented with tiny beads and span-
gles that give such an airy lightness to
the whole design. And the very newest
ooncelt calls for the vest the flaring up-
turned cuff and the collar of any variety
j that Is most becoming, all embroidered
I en suite; and when there is an old-time
little handbag fashioned of the same
suede and embroidered In Just the same
way then the costume Is complete In all
wrnfen, for
color Is co
ifs details. " . ,
The .vogue for v.a ing hues on the
one bodice, or gown, will serve to use up
many of the odd pieces of really good
lace that will accumulate, and make an
economy of what really appears to he
an extravagance. Not content with the
exquisite designs of the lace, the fairy-
like UghtnesH of tho weave, the modern
maid besprinkles her laces with mock
Jewels, tiny paillettes, little gilt nnd
crystal beads and a bewildering multi-
tude of fancy .BtitrLes likewise. Then
she will Inset medallions of one lace ^
upon another and define this inset with i
a double ruffle of the finest Valenciennes.
On the new very full skirts the ten-
dency Is to make the trimmings assume ;
the horizontal line, a device that will
makeigithe short girl gnash her teeth
with rage, for the full skirts, plalri%nd j
unadorned, is foreshortening enough to |
the figure; but with the trimmings run ,
on 'round and 'round it simply subtracts '
whole inches from her apparent height.
For her. especially,^"'have the vandyke
point appliques been Introduced, and
these are not jpade to cover too much
space, but the slanting up nnd down
lines, with their suggestion of height,
will prove very becoming io her Inches
indeed. $
Tucks, nun'a folds, milliners' foUjs snd
the like are light In the very from rank j
of fashion. These used formerly be
made by hand, and whole days It some-
times took to fashion them correctly, for
a single stitch amiss threw the whole
fold out of true. Now, however, the os-
cillating stitchgpf the sewing machln!0
has replaced tne handwork; and the au-
tomatic tuckers and folders guarantee a
degree of accuracy 1ftat Is comforting,
Indeed, to the amateur who likes to
fashion her own sartorial possessions.
But it is in the disposition of lace upon
her frilly and fluffy gowns that the |
clavar girl tapaolaUy revels.. Thara is
simply no "end to 'he deslgn^thal may
be wprtced out In this way; and the de-
signs nre often supplemented with tiny
frilled ribbons of a contrasting tint, or
n wi\vy border is produced by a shirred
fold of satin oPchlff .n velvet.
Those little escallors-or staircases, to
Interpret accurately—of velvet ribbons
fashioned* into the square Louis Sel-'.e
bows find mnny,g ppllc*tlons on the new
gowns. Made in varying or graduated
sizes, they dMorato the front tabller of
the gown, fnften the featherboned gir-
dle, and# wend their walkthrough the
fulness of the puffy sleeve#
Rosettes, too. are highly favored: and
they may be dotted almost anywhere
over the quaint gowns that are so muoh
the rage. They are of lace, of chiffon,
of silk, of velvet; in fact, of any ma-
terial that is handy. They need not at
all correspond to, the material or color
of the gown, provided they offer a har-
monious contrast.
And in the list on-) must not forget to
include* buttons. Buttons of all sorts
und shapes and sizes. The ivory, metal,
porcelain, polished wood—<ome exquisite
square ones of California redwood ap-
pear on an Imported gown—are all fash-
ionable; a no as for the mada button,
the one covered with silk or cloth or
velvet they o.ier a delightful back-
g.\>und for elaboration so much so that
It Js really a temptation to embroider
ana bead them to the utmost limit.
The new bretelles or braces offer an
opportunity for original effects that the
smart girl will quickly make her own.
These are often in velvet rlbbona—the
broad onea ore best—and pass over the
shoulders, back and front, from the
ceinture. The shoulders are made the
point of e.aboratlon; nnd buckles, bows,
buttons and such are used for lAorn-
nient.
Black Crepe de Chins
• With Touches oi White.
Rlnck crepe de chine Is ever In good
style, and In the satin finish Is piirticu-
larly modish at the present writing.
The model In the picture shows the
satin mervellleux crepe with appliques
of black chantllly posed over white
chiffon to throw up the design In bold
relief. The corsage Is arranged with a
lace plastron. In which the chantllly
and a white guipure are blended. The
sleeve is a double purr to the elbow,
where black chiffon frills appear. The
skirt displays the advantage of the
on« seam width being fashioned without
seam, except In the l*rk. There Ih a
applied in vandyke points. Wherever
the black chantllly lace is appllquod tho
crepe Is cut away and a while double
chiffon inserted,
In the Height of Fashion.
A Girlishly Simple Gown.
Simple In outline, *but elaborate li^
detail, la this charming frock of pearl*'
white crepe de chine in the new double
width, that cuta to auch good advan-
tage. The yoke of a boule de nelge net.
with a llttre coral pink velvet twisted
through It The corsage la ahirred over
shallow corda and dropa Into the feath-
erboned ceinture. The sleeve ha* an In-
serted puff deftly draped from smJulder
to wrist, tht chantllly lace over chiffon
edging either side. The skirt is arranged
In throe sections, the one ahirred to the
other, the lace forming a tabller down
the front nnd making on edge at the
hem. Rosettes of lace, cei. er««l with a
gold-embroidered coral vel, 't button,
are spaced down the front, and a fur-
ther una finishes tho collar at tht buck.
Where Fluffy Pu'finjs •
Makes 1 he Style.
Bather an exaggeration of current
modes, but wonderfully becoming to the
slender girl. Is thla^orlginal model, In
which crepe de clilnf; embroidered lac#
chiffon and velvet combine to produce
a stunning effect The corsage has
heart-sliapud yoke of lace, defined with
a rich Jacqueminot red velvet and a
puffy bebe waist caught Into a relnture
of chiffon. In whlchlbream, pink and
Jacqueminot red ure cleverly blended.
The skirt from waist to knoe Is a series
of bouillonnea and entre deux, atid to
tula an extremely bouffant^flounce Is
shirred, a cascadt ruche of lace-edged
cream moussellne being threaded with |
Jacqueminot red chiffon, and making a '
fluffy finish nround the foot. The hem )
has a featherbone crinolette run In. this %
being so flexible that It is not uoHveable 1
Wlttft wear of walks, ..i„
Model for*Afternoon Gown
Ilere a Havana 1)rown crepe de chine
in double width is cleverly touched with
cream laco for yoke and cascade sleeve
drapery, while the .dyed cluny lace,
which exactly mutches the tint of the
crepe. Is deftly edged with a ruffled
green satin fold, this latter servlng'to
frame the cream yoke and arranged In
bold design on the "lower part of the
f-Virt. The corsage Is bloused above a
deep-boned girdle, and tho front la ar-
ranged to emphasize* the extreme
straight front effect, an em^iecement of
cream cloth embroidered In g'reen, brown
and making this conspicuous. The
skirt hr shirred over .cords In fanciful
desigr^ at the hip, and two circular
flounces are each applied beneath deep
nun's folds of the crepe. The Intricate
design of the dyed lace la defined with
the shirred green satin, and the crepe
cut away beneath. Tne hem is fuced
with brown yclveteen, so as to give
some body at the foot to the very sheer
and lightweight crepe de chine.
The Popular Triple Skirt. .
The triple skirt 1s a model much be-
lov - 1 of the tall and alender girl, and
ulii n cleverly handled makes for a very
di- sv effect Indeed. The model !b In a
faint shade of yellow crepe de chine, al-
most a deep cream, and la ceftly touched
up with brown velvet, on which white
soutache and gold make for a good color
•Contrast The corsage simulates a bo-
lero effect, opening In loose atyle over
a blouse of aooordlon-pleated chiffon,
nnd the sleeve has the same square ef-
fect In the crepe de chine over a aerlea
of pu.fy rufllea of chiffon piisse. All of
the squares are framed In Irish croohet
entre-deu*. The skirt c nslsta of three
flounces mounted over taffetas, and are
tn< ked for rather more than half thelc
length, each showing the lace Ineertlon
above the hem. Back and front ale
each disposed In a doublt bog pleat
broadening towards the end, this glvlnf
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Greer, Frank H. The Oklahoma State Capital. (Guthrie, Okla.), Vol. 16, No. 140, Ed. 2 Sunday, October 2, 1904, newspaper, October 2, 1904; Guthrie, Oklahoma. (https://gateway.okhistory.org/ark:/67531/metadc125611/m1/3/: accessed April 25, 2024), The Gateway to Oklahoma History, https://gateway.okhistory.org; crediting Oklahoma Historical Society.