The Oklahoma State Capital. (Guthrie, Okla.), Vol. 16, No. 134, Ed. 2 Sunday, September 25, 1904 Page: 3 of 8
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THE OKLAHOMA STATE CAriTAL: SUNDAY MORNING, SEPTEMBER 25, 1904.'
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The girl who does not look her very
best this coming seaaon In the pictur-
esque millinery that the Parisians are
sending over will have only herself to
thank for It. Never were the modes bo
plainly copied from the historic prints
and pictures, and never has the so-
called picture hat been allowed such
latitude In its lines.
But, on the other hand, the girl who
follows the fashions will have to be
doubly careful that her hat and her
gown correspond. It would never do to
carry the high-crowned, broad-brimmed
Dlrectolre hat with the frilly and fluffy
styles of the Marie Antoinette period.
The entire efTect of even the smartest
costume of the Louis XIV., XV. and
XVI. times—they are not so radially
different from one another — would bo
spoiled by a close-flttlng hat of the
tailor-made type, no matter how becom-
ing it might otherwise prove.
So the wise girl who always presents
a picture must study the histories and
the prints of those times—the public
libraries are rich In these—and then
choose the modern reproduction of those
times that Is most becoming to her par-
ticular style of beauty.•Cleverly planned
the modern maid in her historic cos-
tume will present a picture that Sir
Joshua or Gainsborough or the other
knights of the brush would love to paint.
The richest of materials velvet for
choice—the most artistic colorings, and
scraps of real laces are the distinguish-
ing features of the picturesque chapeaux
that rule the autumn fashion. Some of
the soft, fine French felts are seen, but
those are usually wired and faced with
velvet, so that they may readily be
bent Into the most bewltchlngly becom-
ing curves and angles above the f:iir4
face of the wearer.
Some of the very best modistes of
Paris practically build the hat upon
their costumer. Of course, the shape is
already prepared for the trimming. Seat-
ed before a triple mirror, so that the
effect is apparent from every side at
once, the trimmings are tried at every
possible angle, so that the very best ef-
fect Is assured.
While it Is settled that the brims are
all to be broad and undulating, though
not at all floppy, there is the greatest
variety offered In crowns to go with
those hrlms. There lire the high, sugar-
Ji &CTU^pQUEl&DZl,jrt
ZLLACJ$ & •
loaf crowns, with their encircling folrls
of velvet; there are medium crowns,
that are square, round, diamond shape
or any other fantasy that strike^ the
milliner at the moment. And then there
are the flut shapes that show no crown
at all, but have such a smart bandeau
Introduced to fit the shape to the head
and that tilt it up off the face or to one
side 111 the most f:< srlnat in it w,y. On-
eminently picturesque model built upon
this last plan is on the new ombre or
shaded velvet. The tlntings run through
a pale lilac, on through the orchid
'mauvn to end In a rich amethyst tint.
This latter coloring is matched In the j
plain paon weave for the under brim, i
and this Is shirred In the old-time fash- j
ion. hand^>me appllque^of passe men- ,
terle In r
■en tint, givingtheeolnr p-llef. I in
upper part Is <
a huge, flop
what on the
is the top. '
tsoever of a
bandeau thi
ami glveAui
le shape thn
•enr It. 'I'wr
py pu
rhere Is
crown,
h a pi
to see
e shaded fabric,
it Is plain, and
T of (he ombre,
o'Shanter order.
auggCTtlim
but there Is a
r>rs at the U^ft
•turesque curve
It Is to want
pi '.lines
posed flat on the top of the hat,
near the center, and their thick, fluffy
en-Is curl under the brim and touch the
hair In the baclf.
There is one delightful model that will
suit the girl who makes her coiffure
after the Madonna style to perfection.
It Is fashioned somewhat after the
Henri Quntre style-all the fashions this
eason are copied from the French mon-
archs of various times—with a medium
high rrown that fits the head comforta-
bly without the Intervention of a ban-
deau, and a broad brim that Is slightly
wired so that it will reti.in Its sb-.pe
without stiffness. The brim Is in
at the buck, but widens out at tin 1
and front. The crown is encircle.I
a shirred band of velvet, and from ll
upper edge there falls a full frill of
velvet that makes the quaintest Impres-
sion Imaginable. Reversing the usual
order of things the long white plumes
are twisted around the right side to-
ward the back, the tips curling under,
the brim, while at thu left side, Just
against the hair, there la knotted an
old-time real lace barbe.
Description of Above
Models.
1 /
The Perky Little Velvet Bow.
The girl with clover fingers can nvwl-
ily make forflherself any number of th
smart little howa, rosnttas and sunh
from the scraps at velvets and ribtxma
that accumulate In the bureau drawer*.
These are best made up wtred at both j
edges, the milliners' wire runs in th«
shallow hem. This, slljvstltcbed down
so that the stitches do not Hbow on the
other side. A straight length of vohr t
nnd ribbon can then bo twisted Into :
loops and ends and bent to tl e most be- r
coming angle. The bow in the lHustxm-,,
tlon is s<> fashioned and centered with ft
out steel buckle. The hair Is drwwed
high, nnd around the knot on the orown <
of tho head there passes a shaped plone
likewise In cut steel. Combs are not'
an accompaniment of such coiffure.
En Grande Toilette.
With the decollete gown the low ntyte '
of dr« sp:11g tho hair Is one of the mont
preferred. Where the pompadour style \
Is mast becoming this Is arranged In '
front, and the built-up knot at the book |
is variously decorated with long trprajrs
of flowers, natural or artlflclal. In the(
Illustration a spray of mauve velvet
orchids Is combined with velvet and )
maidenhair fern In pale green tints. The
riviere of diamonds aroutfd the necK'
hern Mm tho revival of neck dresses with
ih - vining gown, nnd the handsome"
' ■ leant that Is posed on the decolletage
a < ncentrlo knot In diamonds, re-
ved with large pearls.
Ethel—Do
him ?
Maud—"No
ou will forget
fh; Romantic Spanish Mantilla
romance that always clings about
the Spanish mantilla makes this a per-
ennial favorite as a sortie de hal. The
true mantilla Is of some one of the real
Spanish lares, fashhmed In a pointed-
shawl pattern, although squares and
long scarfs are Just as often seen,.
The picture shows nn«eaay and popu-
lar way of draping. The shawl/point Is
brought to the center of the coiffure In
front, the long" ends draped picturesque-
ly iiround the shoulders.
Styles For.the Various Coilfkres.
Clever Little Touches That Add So Much To The Appearance.
The little things that count are r-
haps nowhere so apparent as In t'ie fin-
ishing touches to the toilette,®ho rose
or the ribbon that is tucked into tho
J hair, the lace searf^hat Is draped around
I the head and snoulders when the
j dancers repair to the piazza or gardens,
the turn of a puff or liie set of a curl,
all of these are of large Importance In
what Mrs. Partington used to tertfi the
toot and scramble—the dear old lady
meant tho tout ensemble—of one's ap-
The, fashl<4l of WMiini the natural-
flower In o:u s Coiffure nnd on the decol-
letage Is one that faded long ago; but
so natural are tho artlflclal reprodui -
tions nowadays that nothing Is lost and
much gained by ftielr adoption. And
they have the delightful advantage that
ono can wlro them and land them to
th« most becwnlng position posslbh „
giey retain their freshness throwh
Should Plant Chestnut Trees.
The National Bureau of Forestry at
A'ashlngton has carefully studied the
'alues of the various kinds of trees and
)as announced that the chestnut tree
s especially fitted for growth on farm-
jig lands. Like other trees which re-
produce by sprouting, chestnut loses Its
vigor when the root system becomes too
old. Trees grown from seed increase,
both In height and bulk, more slowly
for many years than those grown as
sprouts from the stump. Out by the
time the trees are from 80 to 100 years
old the seedling trees will catch up, and
eventually reach a larger size than the
others. For ordinary uses, however,
chestnut Is out long before this age Is
reached, and coppicing is, therefore, the
best way to raise It. But unless new
seedling growth sturts In the forest along
with the sprout growth the declining
vigor of the old root systems will ro-
— u «uiu*U«r aud smaller production
until only a sickly stand of Inferior
timber Is left to draw on.
It happens that chestnut Is especially
fitted for management In farmers' wood
lots. Before scientific forestry began to
be heard of In the United States, and
when forest preservation was not un-
commonly talked about as a sentimental
fad, tho thrifty owners of the small
tracts of woodland which cover so much
of Southern New England, New York,
Pennsylvania and neighboring states
had long been cutting successive crops
of the hardwoods which Bprout rapidly
from the stump, thus practicing more or
less rudely what the forester calls the
"pure coppice" method of management.
The superior market for chestnut, com-
bined with Its rapid growth, gave It, on
the whole, the lending place hi the es-
teem of the wood-lot owners, who by
winter cutting were able to turn to good
aocount time for which farm 001 IPS
tlons gave no other employment.
most strenuoi
is none of thut bedraggled,
und there
rled ap-
pearand which the
flowers •always pre
hours' wearing.
But there Is a v«
style In which the:,
-din
ural but faded
few
accordln* to th
Perhaps %e mo
he smart llt^c «ft'
os.ttcs and flu- Ilk
Ion out
difference In the
nust be adjusted
of the coiffure.
ersally becoming
arrangement of the floral head-dress Is
that a la Japonnnlse. For ibis the hair
Is dressed a la Pompadour In front. Just
as tho Japanese women roll theirs, and
the back hair may be dressed either high | thrrAhe bow
or low as best suits the wearer. Then j ever. The 11
two rather trailing sprays are fastened j trary, are bei
behind tlx ears, and the f. • • i - It f.. ■
look out from a bower flowers. And
this style Is eve^ equally becoming to
the girl who dresses her hnlr after the
Madonna style, with the simple part In
the center, and a slight wave either side
running to the knot that Is colled on the
nape of the neck.
For evening wean and especially with
the decollete gown the low dressing at
tho back is very becdftilng. Just the
point at which the coll or knot_l^ad-
justed mi^t*depend entirely uj$n the
style of the wearer, and when one or
more of tho new curls—the Imperatrlce
they c^l them abroad—are added, the
effect Is one of youthful glrllihnoss. The
tall an^l broad shouldered girl can ufford
to have a pair^of them tralllns on her
shoulders; but her more slender sl«ter
would better indulge In only ono, and
especially la this so If her features be
at all inclined to the aquiline.
The girl whe^dresses her hair, piling
(■•her head, has man
ful opportunities to add
ing little touches whei
so much to her attra-a
at all clever finger™ t
the i
rods Uj make it firm, tue lltle silk cov- (
ered foliar hone is b;st, und then the
rosette may be bendtbr pinched to suit
the occasion.
Ucilftltlful pieces In cut Jet and In cut i
et el are shown at really moderate
prices In the shops, and these areJ-oyal-
looking coronets, frivolous butterflies,
dainty aigrette shapes and bandeaux of
every size aifc style. The real cut Jet,
which is never cheap, Is going to have :
a tremendous Inning again after a long
period of retirement; and a noted beauty j
appeared a week or two ago at the casi-
no at Trouvllle with her blonde hair
adorned with strings of cut Jot beads i
alternating with pearls.
Necklaces have been In favor for a
little while, but the fashion of n#k
bands witlPthe evening gown is but a
recent revival. Some of the oldtliWe vel-
1 vet hands with diamond slides, a dia-
mond star or some such other ornament
fastened In the front have been Men at
I son if of the Court receptions at Uuck-
! Ingham Palace, and the little wristlets
Lthat used to accompany this style have
bf
o end t
I'ar,
Tli
seen too.
ri vie if -
<f the odds
y girl's bui
iws and si
il <wlth a
bo#
alb
will
either side,
n Its fchape
es, on tho
tme really ex.,.
have been produ
vulgarity being f
:ollar, In precious
WMM.IS !;*" been
tached to their woar^
e luxurious and artls-
he same time arid ap-
i style of these to the
Skyscrapers Tested.
Critics of the modern "skyscrapers,"
with their frowrflhg steel frames, have
predicted thnt these lofty buildings will I
be short-lived, nnd that tliey are all des- .
tlned to crumble away, %'he steel skele>
tons of these structures are mostly hid-
den from observation, and no one can I
tell whether they are Intact or rusting ;
away; but experts conclude, from ex- I
amlnatlon of the frame of one that has
recently been demolished In New York,
that such fears as those mentioned are
groundless. In this building, which has
stood four years, the only rust In tho
frame wus that acquired during con-
struction, nnd It Is concluded by the
Iron Age that the structure would have
stood, If unmolested, as long ns a brick
or stone edlfh-o under the snmt# condi-
tions.
Bidder—I'm thinkin
Picturesque Fall Mil=
linery.
Nsw Accepiation ofthe Picture
Hat.
The^haded velvets are among the
choicest novelties In the autumn^mll-
linery, and a charming example ie
'■ZEXZWTtsnrti
iViiiii
Stirling under the brim and falling on
the hair in the back.
this novel n
-flmt on ti
ed from a pa
■rltinfc i
' harm In that !
at for early
L-k satin and
plume and
1 10 til
I picturesque shape,
flut order, there Is
™ vj" ""rt
r eflwet In the velvet,
e lilac to a rich amo-
rbrhn 1s shirred In
velvet of the deepest shade, and
jues In an ecru tint make for color
The wide bandeau gives the hat
V Jaunty tilt lit the left side, and
covered with a twist and a chou
10, t-i". From tho center of the
i two long plumes In the pale col-
start, tho thick and heavy tips
To Wear With ths
Modes.
Directoire
The high crown, with It* up-staging
plumes and broad undulating Jtrlni.
the c-iwect accompaniment for "e
if the dlrectolre period, which ♦"• so
fashion able at the present moment. Tho
illustration shows a model that will
prove almost universally becoming. Tho
high rrown Is encircled with folded
loops of brown velvet ribbons, and the
two heavy plumes show respectively a
mode and mastlque shade that tones In
well with the brown velvet of the hat.
Tho brim Is covered with tho velvet,
stretched tight and plain, and curving
up Abruptly at the sides. The bandeau
Introduced on the left side lifts thu
shape from the head, giving It a becom-
ing tilt, and this is covered with a loose
twist of brown satin ribbon.
A Picturesque Model In Black
And White.
A large French felt flat has the crown
raised In the style of the Henri Quatre
models. ThlsCs entirely covered with
shirred velvet, and a frill of the same
surrounda the upper edge. Two heavy
ostrich plumes sre draped from the
right side toward the bark In very
original style, and the touch In white Is
repeated In the hvo barbe that Is
knotted under the nrlm on the left side,
rounded ends falling on the hair toward
tho hack. There Is no bandeau to this
> he
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Greer, Frank H. The Oklahoma State Capital. (Guthrie, Okla.), Vol. 16, No. 134, Ed. 2 Sunday, September 25, 1904, newspaper, September 25, 1904; Guthrie, Oklahoma. (https://gateway.okhistory.org/ark:/67531/metadc125602/m1/3/: accessed April 23, 2024), The Gateway to Oklahoma History, https://gateway.okhistory.org; crediting Oklahoma Historical Society.