The Oklahoma State Capital. (Guthrie, Okla.), Vol. 16, No. 104, Ed. 2 Sunday, August 21, 1904 Page: 3 of 8
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i'E CAPITAL: SUXDAY MORNING," AUGUST 21, 10047
TTTK OKLAHOMA
§
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i
• Of Linen and Laca
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Ttzzr. GzpErGopj-i
TZtt L'-i£&C.
. ? V^-'v •> -
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BY MIRIAM SPIER.
None of the summer mnte,rlnl* In more
,-ieautlful thnn the fairy like, cauzea and
Jnets, which may he procured In exquisite
colorings and deHlgns. In some cmm-
'pies, huge roses In pink, yellow or red
•are scattered over a rr->nmy ground, or
.the KToupd Is In a paler or a draper
•shsde of the color of the ro*o: huroHne
buds and green leaves rlvo distinction
(to another sample, and In still rrfhor*.
tiny blossoms. In pale coloring are
Ieraeefullv clustered In wraith or nr.
,nnd effects, seemingly secured hv n
Ibbon In a hnrmmlrring tone fhe solid
-olor nets and \«erv fno sberr mulls ore
'requently mnde up over flnwcreil silk",
find the effect ^>f the floral pattern
ihrotjirh the meshes of the net Is rhr-rm-
tjnr These frocks are lavlshlv tr mm«d
rvlth flounces and fHlls. m^nv of them
lace edped; and rthbons also enter
largely Into their ornamentation. Fc
the summer fete or dance, there Is no
Tnore desirable mode than"one of these
•cool and airy creations'of net.
Handsome -\nd most effective too. of
•all costumes for regnptton or nrden fete
*^re the gowns of batiste, white or col-
.^red. embroidered or elaborated tr'm-
Imedvwlth lace. Pnle shndn* In pink.
Ohio an$ lavender are ebirmlntr. the
olld color being relieved bv lnee and the
.'olorlng In the hat. Although for sim-
pler gowns and even elaborate silk cos.
|tumes, narrow Valendannes Is eroee'd-
.Inaly smart, still the one Inch edeitii*
can never be so effective as the broad
Valenciennes, llerre and Irish point, no
matter In what profusion the narrows
lace may be used. Most effective are the
«owns of batiste edging and wide Valen-
Iclennes used Interchangeably. One it-
Itiactlsp model had a square cut, eollar-
th-
less yoke of .embrr.'.Tei ed h.ntl
deep bertha of lncr fall'r • il -
broad clrdle. Rencfith the 1
sleeve consisted of n in-,^ pil
batiste, below which \\:\n n:.r
of lace and a deep ruff „f u,f
ercd batiste wlf-d wlfh
consisted of alternate ro-r-
hntiste embroidery of the ('•
eneh row sllcMly wider
above and ^ rdu.. ,f (,.•
embrolderv formlne a V" - r
°f, the material he|ew fie !..
black velvet, and about ti,
wefrn a narrow velvet r'b^on
was .black, of e n-t sal'or m® !,.,.,
one long white ostrich'plume the
crown. Where blnek and wi te w he.
comlnR it win be -.-en nc,„f.r
Shades nro more In vngue this «ra«r,n
Another pretty gown made up in the
plain batiste had a volte of wide Valen-
clennes. There wn, also „ deep pnint-,1
bertha of the lace cnu?M up on ciih-r
side, so as to form a pointed . •jvct Vmc
In front and on the sleeves. The voko
too. was rounded with d.ri'-d V :•( m.-
front. giving bene nn snlded dip ?'■>-
tween the bertha and the voire were two
tiny rnchlngs or batiste, and i is; i ,
front n low knot of t arrow • 1 ;e .
ribbon, the ends coming slightly he'ow
the top of the brnnd girdle !!< '.,w ti.*
end of the bertjia the sleeves had ?um
puffs of the muterlal mh m u,d |>\ (.n:v
one row of shirrinK Below these n.i--
row. full puff* was a puff of lice of the
same width, the sle v> > Iielriv; finis'...
nt the elbow with a f ■ I! of tli- lacr- rh,'.
skirt was pm on the band in full pie
and some f.-w Inches below the I ; i
wns added a band "f broad I.-.•. i'.n!sl .
on eaqh side with two smnli ruchitiRs J
like those UHcd l.etw. ii ti... l.,;rtlin and :
TU-jc-z
>ke. Jur.t. In front, about five
jipari, v ere two of the four loop
bows tho endp hanKlnji well
•••low the foot of the These
• •re cuuffht In two or three loops i
ws. lVsldes the two on the front j
skirt, there vere two more of ;
iC
lie shabby and faded tin
will Immediately look
again, when a small |K>
consulted, It Is far bettor to got onf
smart and becoming hat that is perhaps
pat her expensive thnn to get a collection
of cheap hats of poor materials.
which are very becoming worn
muslin or dainty dress. These
hats have a girlish effect: and to he
s Hx-fisful they should bo worn only by
the youthful, and with dainty frocks.
A novel hat of the lingprle type i of
embroidered pongee. The full Tam
O Shauter crown is made of the all-
over embroidery, while *tho brlin Is
funned of a rullle of tho embroidered
edging. Cream white batiste, llnely
plaited, forms the brhn facing. Around
the crown and on the brltn are small
bunches of cherries and green leavei,
and at the baok, falling over the brim,
are red ribbon velvet loops and ends.
1 Ills idea is very smart, cirrlod out with
black velvet ribbon, a band or the rib-
bon encircling the crown Instead dt the
cherries. Gold braid and a gold cord,
with tasseled ends. Is another suggestion
for trimming this hat
In Simple Lawns-and Lace Trimmed Linens.
nere vere two more or j of cheap hats of poor materials. Ilt-ro,
bows en rich side, the side knots I as everywhere. It Is Quality, not quan-
ni,' on the lower etid of the lace. In- 1 tlty. thai counts. It is well to decide
ad of the \4 p. ns In front und baok. , d- Unite
•■st ^
broad la
' 1 1 bloc
ribbon. The
a* another row of
i. Tho girdle was
white
tol
th'
It Is
i i ts to be
straw
..... rllit>nn.
Ftrenmers tied
-bonnet style.
vtny cl^armlnsfly
ns. there nre eo
active and elan-
everywhere that !
to decide what •
it becoming
■st wit
flm
.-^hand what will be tho
r to pror-u^' -ono that will go
k fjght costunuK—and
t Is at once attrnetivo
ape and style
tally the only w
to g't as many hats as the p<
H Ok Will permit. V.nd In this wav
vill h bo p.wslblo t.. have a hat t.
very oeea.sion. If it is no* possil
turchnse many no pmtter how >
ud frogh ti e dress may be. If th
with nil light <
Of all the ci
iltv ' art there
Lh all light
reen Is e\-
r partlcu-
nd If there
i of the milliners'
re charming than
it made In simple
the finest of lace
a large bow of
• iming. Even tho
are brought Into
1'"se I'l' turfsqile
Where Blue and Green Combine
White linen etamlno hns concentrlo
rings .of turquoiso blue nnd a peacock
green, respectively, embroidered at close
intervals, and this curious but pleasing
colui contrast Is rej>euted in the trimly
honed d. < p silk girdle. The Jacket Is a
short eton, tabbed at the edgc over a
frilling of lace, tho grouped tucks on the
shoulders forming the fulness below tho
bust. Tho sleeves nro extremely " full
nnd open over an unllned undcrsleeve of
Valenciennes Insertions whipped toReth-
< r. deep lingerie ruffles making a dainty
finish. The skirt Is shirred over cords
l;i yoke design, nnd a very bouCfant cir-
cular flounce Is applied beneath tabs
which match those of the coat. I.aco
medallions bordered with the lino vol.
edge are posed between tiio tabs, the
ft unine being out away htnrvii h.
irabroid-
The Coat Costinne h
ercd Liaiiste.
Cont costumes appear In the sheerest
of fabrics, and It Is no un -ununon thing
to And shec-r lawns, bali:-tcs', llnons, etc.,
garnished with cloth. The-Parisian cre-
ation Is in embroidered batiste with the
favorlto button design. Tho coat is of
the loose box order, with a fancy collar
and llowlng sleeve cuff of a sulphur yel-
low, touched up with tidy i uchea of
Valenciennes. The slilrt is full, sturred
to tho walstbnnd, and at knee depth a
ve-ry full llounfe or a different design Is
introduced. This is trimmed similarly
to the coat with sulphur yellow chiffon
—d valencleiun s ruchlugs. Uttle
en <>L's of flexible gold braids are intro-
duced at intervals in the slashings of
tho cloth. .
Thei> I* no wnn« or dlmlnntfon to thm
Popularity of the shlrtvmist nultf and In
linen with hnnd-mado ovpUque* tt Is
both serviceable ond stylJ di. Th« illue-
LiH. hnn(1-mnd" Jftwslan pi.nh.
with tennrlffe whwds wrotiglit Into n e-
Thi kV '? nn(l hnntJworked fagoting.
The b;ouee Is faf h1ono«l with Jotig shoul-
u^m.- to bnck and froTtts ar«
n pplled In tucks. Tbo Une Is cut a ay
beneath the ru«daJUon« and panel de-
signs am slrnulatod In the fiuonlng. The
skirt Is tucked to about the kn<>e, wher
the tuclcs are released, appllqued medal-
lions and famatlng fortnln":; tl.o trhumln*
scheme, as on the waist. '
Simplicity On White Net.
For nn nil-around utility frock
mflilto nets are nbout as suitable and
satisfactory as can be had. In the do-
sign pictured several novel points of
fashion are displayed. The sleeve Is a
particularly good one. There 1s a foun-
dation sleeve of regulation cut in the
net, and o?er tMs the outer *lr* ve la
sldrred to form n puff over the back
seam. The collar sjkI shallow yoke are
of blna la-wn strips shaped ontf held to-
gether by farcy fagoting stltchea. The
blouse puffs but slightly in front, nnd
Is drawn snug at the bnclt Into the rib-
bon girdle. Tho aklrt 1* shirred to the
bond and large medallions of imitation
guipure are connected by folds of mi tin
ribbon. Two deep tucka head the hem.
and the drop skirt has a shallow band
of prlnocss haircloth Inserted in tho vel-
vet-bound hem to hold out the full folds
of the net at the correct "llou. '
The Extremo Of Tha Lingi'-is
Hat.
The extreme of the lingerie mod« i«
pictured In tho hat of Etmllsh embroid-
ery, which In this Instance Is fashioned
upon a fnatherbone frame, so th.it It
may be plunged Into tho tub when soiled
and come forth looking like new. The
crown is of tuoked llnor. with a little
Valenciennes edge whipped on each
tuck, and the brim 1b covered on the
outside with tho English embroidery
and faced beneath with frills of coin
spot 'Valenoleunes to moot tin* drooping
edge of the upper brim. There la a
bandeau faced with ribbon, and a fluffy
bunch of yellow California popplea are
tuoked In under tho brim.. Needless to
say these are to be removed when tha
hat make* its periodical visits to t .a
cleansing tub of. the laundresa
^ Picturesque Toilettes For Summer Conquests, .j??
r 1t In with Isntv hnn.lia .. ,
Whether it is with leafy boughs and
velvety lawns as a background, or with
the plainer settings of the racetrack or
hotel veranda, the toilettes prepared for
the summer conquesjs are picturesque
beyond denial. After tentative trials of
11 ajuIs XVI. and Dlrectolre models, Dame
Ji ashlon Is contented, at last, with the
ilxmis XVI. Inspirat on for her motive,
too, gathered skirts pointed bodices, de-
•:4 -*r
mure fichus and picture hats of the
Trianon order are making up coqurt-
tlsh .nsemhle,. ot all ,lyK„ the « ar.
tho beat sultetj tu jrunimor, n:nc« gather*
and «s'rra ina-dslnty manipulation. ■ .0 iiiW nip.-.tt-t cf feminine
" a"ry '"dS:"!,ly,"r",:'1 woNd-famed ai«,.m„k.r.™ .Ur. of th.
lit. wlnf.r U„P„h !'as" who display the acme of
noniin il snrimr ■ <« 16 5? °' tbe fubhion at the French racecourses and
rirtorlk wn?M "."' "V"""" •> •IM'ott tl.em.elv.. at
V world as to tb« .lirami™ lawn parties and veranda b o clocks.
Llfiht materials eeem naturally to be
tl.o order of the* day, und one sees every-
where vaporou-, film: y tissues envelop-
ing the svelte figure of the fashionable
Human. Llnon, always acceptablo In
summer and alwnys. dellgiitful to wear.
Is quite as populur as durli\g' the past
seasons, but has mora decoration than
ever. It Is cut In b!a- piece with entio-
deux of lace with tucka, and arranged
In ail conceivable modes. Uroderlo An-
glalse, so soft and so iimenable to shap-
ing the patterns of t:ie moment, inakea
some delicious costumes for the sum-
mer. It Is employed more and'more for
blouses which call for no other adorn-
ment. It fashions whole frocks, too, a
oolnture of silk and a stock of the same
being all thot Is necessary to give va-
riety to the eusembie.
The linens, from the slmnle morning .
frocks to the lace and epibroldery j
decked carriage gown;, are ana^ig the ■
most satisfactory toilette* of the sum- •]
mer.
In a blue linen seen recently there
were h number of prutty tyuches. A
deep yoke collar was finished with two
pretty lapels. Thes.\ us well aa the
deep turned-bnek cuffs, w^re of wlijte
pique, embroidered with red dots. The
girdle was of white pique. Small bows
of red satin decorated the lace vest.
The sleeves frills were , f white llnon.
With this toilet were worn shiny black
leather pumps and blue stockings em-
broidered with red dots. The hat was
ii lingerie affair of lace, trimmed with
mull. Another particularly pretty frock
was of embroidered Swiss in green and
white. The skirt was full, gathered Into
tj:e waistband. The .blouse was very
full, and was gathered both Into waist-
band atyj yoke. Tlie yoke was of tucked
white In wn. A flchu of embrold>«-ed
lawn added a touch of lualntness. This
was finished with einbroidc.od tabs, and
the glrdlo was of green, silk.
A noticeable feature in the fashions
of the moment Is the vogue of t.io wide
girdle, which is made to retain Its shape
b> the assistance of the featherbone. The
soiiy crushed ribbon belt, with Its
huiit.oiue goid, aiivut er enatnukd
the present dic tum will hold only I buckle nnd slide nt th Jiack Is pretty
t "ou.j:. the wann months. But for ■ to acco. v t ;,>tn«r gnwn The
Sm* aoatn. xvi. K/le. «r. | u-it of gild to in a i.„,s,iy
Va thSe H de* iT,ttern an >t!.<-i ."tractive d-.i
i.o i n""'"r diesh— |Itt'hlle the greatest n v.-lty is that snow-
ing peacock feathers in all their lilde.^-
cent hues embro
ground, or, perhnp
tinsel ribbon with
wn It; a pin or buc
9'here are any n
d on a silk or satin
in the form of a
ho design stamped
.o fastens the belt,
iber of odd-shapetf
buekleB, bome having the slldo for tl.o
back. The popularity ot -Irdle belt
creases, nnd these are procurable
variety of material.-*—soft kid, -suede,
silk, satin and linen-ana are usually se-
verely plain, with the exception « f the
buckle and possibly a no\ I airangeinent
of buttons,-preferably gilt or gun metal,
ut tho back, where t: •_ ...id'.o soiuetiuied
widens, or It is cut in soi.ie funcy shape.
Linen ctatnlne is a popular material
for the smart shirtwaist costume, it
combines coolness, lightness of weight
nnd softness, and it pu .bu^ses admirable
u taring qualities, b;nce It does not
shrink, ns do" other lin :is. Also, It
Wnds Itself to the t.^l.lonable erosa-
siltch embroideiy, which any, clever
«oma(ji enn readily accompljah herself.
A well-made. uiurtwa.st diess of linen
etiimine, muslin or : me other tub rr.a-
teilal might be snld to De an absolute
batiste; This Is, of course merely the
yoke, ns tho gulmp-s itself i„ made of
thinnest lawn, fitted tl«i.tly, but not
borud, and made to fasten at the back,
.til her yokes nro of Valenciennes,
stltehed together or Joined by narrow
bands *>f batiste. Again, there may bo
a row of Valenciennes entredeux. and
on either side a piece of narrow Vab n-
rtt'nnes edirln.-. The wa-lst Is cut ho as
to show this yoke e ther V-Hhaped,
rpundefV or pquaie. The cuffs should be
the same as the yoke nnd made so ns to
:iy taken out, washed and stitched
In--! on again.
Important Chance in Dress Ma-
kin?. '
I Rerause of th
I of the eutreme
such as the Fre
tho 8«mlsllk lav
the past two sea
! and bounds, tho
j summer custom
ilt on new
of making ut) 11
a llnlt* or foundation,
mer Jdwn or muslin
' almost exclusive rJ ign
ly lightweight fabrics,
rich figured tnusllns nnd
•ns which have, within
sons, Increased by leaps
art pf dressmaking for
*s has been practically
lines. The old manner
r Included
, ,.To lUie a sutn-
coHtunfe five, or
ridiculous. Now, however, no really
swelf summer wear Is mudo except tho
necessity for any wor.an w.ho is living j material Is built upon a tight-tlttlng
near the city, and o< Hlonally comes
to town for a day's shopping or for
some matter of business. Thes« women
will not find one shirtwaist dress
enough, and they had best be provided
Vvith some few linens or dark muslin
costumcs for this purpose. 611k Is smart
foundation, usually of sillcla or long
ekith. •
To get the best results the lining for
the blouse should be made separate, as
this will permit the lining to be laun-
dered separately, and It can be given a
good body with a etlff starch, and
and cc.n be made up so as to bo dell- j produce a much better set to the entire
clously cool; but for hard, every day j costume. The lining can be caught at
wear one wants a gown tht^t can be j the shoulder seams and the waist with
waahed as ofteu as desired. A dark blue a few hasty stitches by the ladles' maid
muslin gown mado simply, but at the or by ti . wearer herself when the at-'
same time kept attractive and beeon\- | tendant Is lacking. As too much st.ir:h
lng. Is a great comfort In midsummer. Is not fashionable In the softer muslins
lids gown nilSt tie kept simple, in spite and moussellnes de sole or loulslnea.
of all that the modiste will say to the j th a tno<hod «• f launderlrfg Is v- ry lrn-
contrary. for It Is Intended to be a really — -♦«* "•
'iseful wash dress. As white Is to be
much worn on all costumes—and a
bit of white at the throat will.greatly
add to tho charm of any dark*gown—
on excellent plan is to have the yoke
made on a wull-fitted sleeveless guimpe.
No lining will then bo neeewaary to tho
dress, and this white collnr and yoke
can be washed as often as desired. Nat-
urally llit; light will soil far more read-
ily than the'dark material, and it is
not a bad plan to have two gwlnipes
made for one gown. This .*uln>pr may
be of luce or of hue luckcd or kluriud
pcrtant to remember and practice.
The newest ^hnped skirt for these
summer gowns Is In three pieces, with
a five-piece foundation and three-
flounced. The skirt should he cut Into
two fronts, with extra width ft>r the
sides, and the entire hack Is cut in ono
i :■•''•. the .• klrt hnvlM; a left side elu:--
plait, which is lost under the ruttleg.
hips
■ In nutnbdPmHPHI
mm the waistband half wjv
knees. Tho flounces ratiK
tho
Ililll
:W'.
iii ii i
Pill
alii
zi£V U
■ aiul LiOiidou.
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Greer, Frank H. The Oklahoma State Capital. (Guthrie, Okla.), Vol. 16, No. 104, Ed. 2 Sunday, August 21, 1904, newspaper, August 21, 1904; Guthrie, Oklahoma. (https://gateway.okhistory.org/ark:/67531/metadc125560/m1/3/: accessed April 25, 2024), The Gateway to Oklahoma History, https://gateway.okhistory.org; crediting Oklahoma Historical Society.